just becuase my reaction is in the .900 to a full second or min dont mean its me... but hey i'm not going .7 sec slower but what people are saying about the convertor sound interesting. so does that mean if i put 4:11s in my car over the 4:62s i'll gain .5 sec! still haven't had time to post vids of my problem.. sorry eric no shot of you.. my dad didn't tape it along with my other 2 runs
too low stall will usually affect et, but mph stays about the same. just like if you get wheelspin off the line, the et is slower, but the mph is usually the same. what is your stall now on the converter? if u hava amanual shift vb, roll along slowly on the return road, put trans in high geart and floor it for a moment while watching the tach. that will tell u approx the stall speed. if your power band is really 5500-7500 that stall better be 5000+. what are cam specs?
Cool, I'm gonna try that to see what the stall is. The converter is a 4500 stall. My cam specs are 268/276 @ .050, .673 lift. Comp cams recommended a 5500 or higher stall with the correct gearing. The 4500 stall was chosen to make the car less radical in the beginning because it was my first engine build, first fast car, suspension wasn't setup yet, yada yada yada. It's all about getting the right engine/drivetrain combo, and I think I just got lucky before with a stall/gear combo that kind of worked. Good news is that I called Redneck Performance where I bought the converter from (ebay) and they said they could redo my converter for 5500 stall for only $125 and it will only take 2-3 days.
how does it feel when u leave now? hard? soft? hits & eases off then picks up again? still, too low a stall is a function of application of hp. how do you leave? using a chip? how hard against the conv & at what rpm? you might be off 1 mph or so, but losing 9 mph seems a bit much for low stall. compare to an old slip. what size tire are you running? how tall? what intake? what carb?
Erick you should be able to tell them your setup and they get that converter perfect for you...you get to the track enough you'll find out what routine wotks best for your setup
Wow I can't even imagine how many variables could come into play, track conditions, humidity temp, tires, head wind , just being a few inches either way at the starting line could have affect on launch couldnt it?
I footbrake to about 2500rpm and it leaves smooth, not that hard. It used to seem to pick up shortly after launch and pull hard. Now it just feels like I lost 100 HP. I have a Victor Jr. intake, 750 Quick Fuel carb and 26x10 slicks. Slowing down was probably a combination of a bunch of stuff. Can't wait to do some more testing to help get rid of some of the variables.
Well since Erick is getting his thing fixed now I gotta work on mine. I’m thinking my leaf springs are causing the problem. I’d like your guys input on this one. I think the half a leaf i had added in the front is causing it not to keep planted on the ground and is working against the Cal Tracs. It seems to be getting no wheel hop off the line but just spinnig after the launch. What do you think? y Watch this video and tell me what you think? This shot is at the extreme on what it does.. most of the time its not this bad. http://maverickman.com/moviebadrun.mpg if you watch the other in car cam watch the tach and you can see it has some spin. Even with all that spin it still pulled a 1.925 60ft… nothing to be proud of but dang did you see it hit the rev limiter! Please note that the starter was taking forever to start us. I was like what the heck! I cut the vid short cuz it was way to long… you’ll see me look over at the starter like “well?” and then of course I slept on the line again… I really need some practice! I also was thinking that the car sits higher in the back then it use to. Before it had the old leaf springs with the 1 inch lowering block and slapper bars. So I’m thinking maybe I should put some stock front spring back in to help some weight transfer. So what do you guys think? Here’s is another vid of my getting eaten off the line while I was sleeping again! But I beat him by .0564 that was the best run for the day @7.72s but like I said before its still almost a .10th off from b4! http://maverickman.com/moviebarelywins.mpg heres one more run http://maverickman.com/movielosestodunebuggy.mpg lost to a wheely standing dune buggy!
Dude, you are in a coma! Why are you waiting until the light turns green to launch? You need to leave when the last yellow comes on. I started doing that and had three pretty decent lights in a row (.165, .122, .145). Not going to win many bracket races with those lights, but they are much better than my previous RTs.
i ran my caltracs for the first time last race. my 60' times went up. also the rear end was a lot higher. how much preload did you put in? i loosened the caltracs and it's sitting in the garage right now. rear end went down almost 2". calvert says to adjust til the crossbar in the caltracs just touches the spring, then 1/4 turn. is this 1/4 turn total or adust 1/4 turn at a time until it is right? my 60's were about 1.85 with no spin. i'm going to put just 1/4 turn in after it touches the spring at the next race and see what it does. any suggestions? would i be better off with the calvert mono leaf than the 4 leaf springs i now have. didn't mean to hijack the thread but i thought the answers may help both of us figure these things out.
I think you're spinning!! First things first.....remove the half a leaf that you added. Remove the lowering blocks.....put a good set of mono-leafs in it. Or, if you don't want to spend the money right now, remove leafs until you get the ride height back down to where you want it. Check and make sure that nothing is in a bind ie. cal tracks, shackles, leaf spring bushings ( i'm assuming that you installed the aluminum bushing) then, check to make sure the rear end is square under the car. You shouldn't be spinning and your 60' times should probably be more like 1.60's to 1.70's.
Also, we need video from the exterior of the car to see what the suspension is doing.....from the rear corner of the car, a nice close up on a hard launch will tell you a TON of stuff!!!!
Very strange....the 9" is heavier and takes more power to turn but shouldn't take off that much time......I changed from an 8" with 4.56 gears to a 9" w/ 4.00 gears and it didn't slow me down hardly any. I'm afraid you've got some time to spend getting that car scienced out!!
i was giving the other guy a head start! preload was a 1/4 turn on the driver side and a 1/2 turn on the pass. it does come out streight and the car does hook off the line.. its after it launches it spins. the best 60 ft that day was a high 1.7somthing (gotta but look at the time slip again) yeah i think i'm just going to buy the caltrac split leafs. i checked for binding already and i did have it the last time but i fixed all that. this set up does NOT have the lowering block in it. the car can run a 1.70 with that set up its just very inconsitant. again with the stock leafs and the cheap traction bars and lowering block it was in the 1.6 more often. but even then it still would spin.
