xtant amps? 74maverick, I have seen a bunch of Xtant amps on ebay and such, I've been out of the car audiophile business for about ummmm......let's see my oldest is 17, yea, that's it....... 17yrs now. I see those amps and now there are some Cadence speakers out. What do you think of these names? Robert:bananaman ps guess i'm askin', what are a few good reliable names now for amps/speakers....thanks
Good names in stereo Comet Dad, I love talking stereo anytime. For Amps your top of the line would be, X-tant, PPI, JL, Alpine, Eclipse, your next class down would be like Sony, Kenwood, Nakamichi, JBL, Pioneer, bottom of the line being JVC, Blaupunk, Pyramid. There are others but these are some of the popular brands in each class. For speakers, front stage components Boston Acoustic, JL, Eclipse, MB Quarts, next line down would be Pioneer, JBL, Sony no lower line really. Front coaxials are made by all makes above. Subs top JL, Boston Acustic, Eclipse, next down Sony, Kicker, Pioneer, bottom Pyramid, Blaupunk, JVC. Hopefully this helps you these are the big names in each class if anyone else can think of others please add. 74Maverick, Thom
Okay, can someone tell me what the best type of sub is for these cars as well as the best way of mounting one? Obviously it's a confined space back there in the trunk. I have been wanting to run my 6x9s as mains with a sub-woofer behind the back seat, and I have a 560 watt power-amp with built-in variable crossover. I know that's small by today's standards but by 1973 standards, it's pretty killer. I don't want a car that "booms", but rather one that 'thumps'. I listen to Rock, Metal, Jazz, & R&B. Not the hip-hop "booming" stuff that is so often heard coming from cars with big stereos. I just want a tight focused punchy sound. I want the vibration to come from the exhaust pipes, not the speakers. Just haven't figured out what I'm gonna do about a sub. Suggestions are welcome...
Rob C. Audiobahn subs are on the lower line. Believe it or not but the price in stereo equipment is usually a good reference. If you pay good money you will have good equipment. Except MB Quarts they are overpriced. I don't want to steer you into spending big bucks if you dont need to. If you just want something that sounds good for your own enjoyment stay with the lower line to mid line. If you want to compete spend the money, do your research. You get your biggest increase w/ the least amount of money in the beginning. For example you may spend $2,000 to get your stereo to hit 120db. I spent $8,000 more just to hit 146db. Of course sound quality increased too tremendously. TL, for subs this is my personal opinion but JL is the best sub to go w/ especially for the reason of space. 1-12" JL sub will take 1 cu. ft. displacement(box space) were alot of subs require 1.5 cu. ft. If you want the thump you want a sealed enclosure. I listen to hardcore, and metal. Sealed enclosures put off a little less bass but accurate solid bass. A ported enclosure good for your R+B, club, a port gives you a +3 db gain w/ drawn out bass not good for listening to Metallica (Lars Uhlrichs double kicks). Band pass box gives you +6db gain very sloppy bass(in my opinion) good for gangsta rap. So in your case JL subs in sealed enclosure. Depending on how much bass you may only want 1 sub. 74Maverick, Thom
Rob C by the way finally checked out that head unit you were looking at and it looks good. I would go w/ that. You have two pre amp out puts too if you decide to run a couple amps too. Thom
alright cool i was playing with it in tweeter and really liked how everything was set up. the controls were simple and to the point. maybe ill stop saving my money for no reason and buy it hehe
personally i wouldn't get them.. stuffs made in china.. not thats theres any wrong with things made there... but there are better products out there. i had a audiobahn amp that someone gave me.. was like a 1000 watt amp... who knows what the real RMS was.. but my small Hifonics @ 100 watts + bridged sounded better. i'd stick with the majors. that goes for head units as well.. i go with pionner.
my opinion would to go with JL's or Kickers for subs.. thats a personal recomendation you can decide to take it or not. I have always like sealed boxes it takes a bit more power to drive them but i perfer the sound. as for placement depending on how hard core you want to make your box / enclosuer anything done right will work.. however if its just a box your going to put in the trunk i would face the speakers at the rear of the car..remember to get the right specs for the speakers you buy. good luck.
Real amp power A quick way to estimate the "real" power output capability of an amplifier is to look at the fusing on the amp and apply Ohms law. Assuming the fuses have not been swapped out for different ones, a quick and easy way to remember is to mulitply the fuse capacity X10. So an amplifier with 50amps of fusing is capable of about 500 watts at 12volts of input power. Next time someone trys to pass off an amplifier as "2000watts dude", you will know better and save your money for a quality amp.
If you want real amp power you should always try to go by R.M.S. (Real Manufactured Sound) This is a measuring devise since isnt really any formula to watts. you find this through any good stereo magazine. Thom
Rms stands for root-mean-square. RMS refers to the most common mathematical method of defining the effective voltage or current of an AC wave. For a sine wave, the rms value is 0.707 times the peak value, or 0.354 times the peak-to-peak value. Here's a link... http://www.eatel.net/~amptech/elecdisc/voltages.htm
