Go to my gallery on page 6 - 7 you will see the booster I used it's from ABS Power Brakes in orange ca. on the web at ABS Power Brakes .com
96 Explorer set up Throttlebody 90 degrees towards front and looks like fuel pressure regulator would be in the way, besides already dealing with harnes extensions in other areas. so smaller booster would be best case senario!
I have a 73 maverick and just did the swap. I have drum brakes but figured I would give it a shot. First off I recomend it. It feels great, stops on a dime and looks pro. Everyone keeps suggesting the article on a falcon.. My 73 was definitely no where near as easy as they made it sound but I did the swap for under $50.00 bucks. I will try to include as much as possible. This is probably going to be as detailed as it is going to get. I searched all over the forums and just saw vague responses or opinions. What you need. - Brake booster and master out of any Geo I paid $20.00 at the scrap yard. (Don't forget the gasket that goes between the booster and firewall. - Now take that booster to the auto part store and get two 20 inch break lines that will screw into it don't worry about being double sided. I'll get to it later. Get a plug for the top port. - while at the auto part store buy a cheap brake light switch I paid $8.00 we just went through them until I found one with two post. Now find a round clamp I got two that were for an air cleaner. It needs to be big enough to go around the column under the dash. Don't forget brake booster air hose and clamps. - a grinder or Dremmel - now take off the break pedal. Grind the back of the pin out and knock out the brake pin. - take the booster and the pedal to Home Depot and/or lowes. Get a piece of strong thick metal an inch wide. And at least three inches long. Find a bolt for the brake pedal and a lock washer. Find a smaller bolt with a lock washer for the booster arm. - pipe cutter - pipe bender - flare tool - brake fluid Let's get started. - take your master cylinder out. Remove the support on the driver side. It will fit when done. Follow the two brake lines and take them out. Keep them. They run to the proportioning valve. - you will see two brake lines running under where the master was on the fire wall grab them and push down to bend it out of the way. Be careful not to kink them. - get vice grips and take out the studs that were holding the master in place. Mine were stubborn so I had to hit it with a little blow torch. - now grind the two studs above those down to the bolts - you will see two protruding bolt ends that are sharp grind those down as well. - take the gasket for the brake booster and tape it to the fire wall. - drill four of your holes. - the hole for your booster will need to be bigger so start grinding away. I used a Dremmel. - now go under the dash and cut away some of the firewall padding so you have access to the holes. I did not use the top left hole it was impossible to get to. - have someone push the booster through - it takes a little muscle but it will bolt up but it is a tight fit.. This part is the hardest. - once that is bolted up grab the brake pedal and put it in. - you will notice it does not line up. This is what the bolts and metal are for. Drill a big hole for the top brake pedal bolt in the metal piece you got. Drill a smaller hole for the bolt that will connect to the booster arm. Now cut the metal so there is no excess. - bolt your metal extender up with the metal facing the driver side. Now bolt the other end to the booster arm facing passenger side. It will make sense once you see it. - Take your brake light switch out. Just unplug it. Keep the plug intact. - brake line time. So go under the hood and bend the lines to fit in there new locations. Use the pipe cutter and take the fittings off that went to your proportioning valve. Put the ends on your new lines and flare them out. Attach the lines and add some brake fluid. Pump the brakes and check for leaks. - now take the two wires from the brake valve and wire them to the wires off the booster this is the low fluid light. - now take your brake light switch out there should be two wires that came with it. I plug them into the new switch take the male end and shove the wires into where your old switch plugged into. Tape it up good with electrical tape. - now take the switch and clamp it to the column so the button hits the shaft of the brake pedal. I used some washers to shim it at an angle. Now when you press on the brake the light will turn on when the switch is depressed. - hook up the vacume line to an open port. I have a straight 6 it was by the passenger manifold. - bleed brakes, put your strut support bracket back on. Now you have power brakes. I have a 99 f-150 four wheel disc. my power drum brakes stop just as good. I can care less whether I have disc brakes now or not. This project was a pain. But well worth it. It takes about a full day to complete maybe two. Good luck!
