Is your inline6 a 200. If you need some parts I have a 74 I can give you parts from. I am in West Virginia. I have some new parts if you want them. You just pay shipping. New fuel pump New plugs New idler arm for power steering. Just pm me.
Im actualy looking for everything i need to swap to manual disc brakes in the front if you have that. let me know a price and we can work somthing out.
it has 344,000 miles on it and still runs smooth and it all looks clean inside the engine, cant get engines like that anymore. just needs a new carb and water pump.
the parts i know im gonna need to pass inspection is a blinker switch, not sure if it needs re wireing for the brake lights or just a fuse but one of those. gauge lights, heater core or defrosters for the dash. i was afraid it had a badly rusted cowl do to the rust in the floors but found out from the original owner it was just the windshield seal and the cowl is solid. windshield wipers do not work and i dont know why yet, mabey a fuse or a bad switch, disc brakes for the front and some new tires all arouind. Im going to replace the rear wheels with some black 4 lug pro comps from daimond racing wheels not sure on what kind of backspacing it needs to be but its only going to be 15x8's with some bf goodrich radial white labels i just want them to be wide enough to look good but stay under the fender and they will be taller becouse that looks good on this car. on the front I will have 15x7 steel wheels from a plymouth fury witch is my other project car it has a 383 big block with a 727 auto the hole car minus the rear quarter rust is in awesome shape but it will cost a lot more to build so for now my attention is on the maverick.
Yeah, OK... A buddy has a lowely Kia Sedona with 386K miles(it's up for sale) and also has a Camry daily driver with 311K mi... Another friend has a '88 T-Bird 5.0 with 361K mi... At least it's a Ford, but is now dead because someone T-Boned it... With regular oil changes about any engine will make 300K mi these days... Before fuel injection and O/D transmissions, very few were still half way running at 150K mi...
Ill be a little more specific then. you cant find many original engines that cheap from that time that are still running and easily repaired that haven't had any parts replaced aside from oil changes in a car. and its not common to find a car with a long lasting original engine from that time. and what im trying to say is you cant find many old engines like that now and days that are still running that smooth and that clean. Im not comparing to newer engines just saying its rare to find one that old in that good of shape with no parts replaced.
My 74 comet is all drum brakes. They are manual. New master cylinder put on last year before the head gasket blow.
Ive heard from a lot of people that 4 lug drums are dangerous and that i should switch to the 5 lug disc for the sake of safety. I know that people drove with them for years without a hitch. the origonal owner told me they worked fine do to how light the car is but he only had trouble braking when it rained but ide rather not take the chance.
The four lug drum were usually 9" diameter and five lug drums were 10" diameter and generally wider. The larger the drum the more surface area for heat dissipation. In a manual brake system on the first stop drum brakes will create more stopping power for the pedal effort. Disk brakes generally reject heat faster so on the second application of the brakes they work better. In other words more heat in the brakes the less braking power. Last thing disk brakes will almost always have some drag on the wheel because the piston seal and the run out of the rotor are the only retraction mechanism (the pads don't get pulled away from the rotor), drums use springs to pull the shoes away from the drums. So if you aren't doing a lot of high speed braking with a lot of weight in the car you will be okay. If you are descending 4000' feet down a mountain with four people in the car it can be a lot more interesting (been there done that glad I had a manual transmission).
Do you suggest i go to 5 lug drums instead of discs? what can i get them off of to bolt on and what do i need? Im hoping im never in a emergency situation and have to use them but there are a lot of crappy drivers out there. Im also looking to swap the rear out for 5 lug drums as well wich will also give me a larger selection in wheels lol. I think i will have to swap out the whole rear end for that. how hard would it be to adapt to the c4, stock drive shaft and suspension? and what brake master cylinder will I need? sorry about all the questions ive got 400 dollars and im looking to get started soon so im looking for as much info as i can thank you in advance, any info would help greatly.
If you don't drive the car hard they will work. Me personally I drove in a spirited manner and therefore went discs and now have gone to Wilwoods because I plan on using them for track days.
one of the main things im trying to figure out is the wheel selection lol. I was hoping Diamond Racing Wheels would make some pro comps that could fit but i havent got a straight answer from them yet. Im wanting to keep it inline six and the c4 auto but i at least want it to look good.. a common issue im sure
