I must say that looks like the only way to go for the ultimate restomod of one of these cars. Looks great and cant wait to see more progress pics. Dan
This is 2x4 steel tubing. It's a real quality piece. Can't say enough good things about it! I wish all companies were this easy and hassel free to deal with. If I ever do another Maverick I will get this kit again.
How long are those tubes that mount the lower a-frames? Keep the pictures coming as you build - it is a nice set up.
What Stang headers have you used in a Maverick? I have had a few different sets of Tubulars, they were all good products IMO. I know they won't work with this M2 suspension. At least not the 351c or B302s. They depend on wrapping around the stock suspension too much. Anyway, what year Stang 351c headers fit a Maverick? I have always wondered if they might.
I had the Tubulars with the stock suspension. Now I bought a set of Mustang headers to try to get them to work once I do the MII conversion like you did. That is why I was asking for the tube lengths. To see if the headers will clear. They still might need some work.
Questions concerning the Fox body double hump oil pans. The stock Ford double hump pans for 5.0 and 351 will work well with the R&C crossmember and power steering rack. The Canton, Milodon, etc. pans usually have a fitment problem with Mustang II cross members. The Mustang II cross members are wider than the K-member and steering rack used in a Fox body. Most of the time, you have to cut the after market pans to make the front sump shallower and to make the front sump narrower from front to rear. Measure the gap from the back of the front sump to the front of the rear sump. Now, mock up your steering rack and measure from the front of the rack (the power steering lines are usually the interference point) to the back of the cross member. A trial fit will usually show enough interference to require either pan modifications or the engine will have to sit too high in the engine bay. I will try to get some pictures of what I am talking about.
Jayman: So an aftermarket 351c or 460 pan for swapping into a Fox would not be a straight in affair? Also, how about engine mounts? I would want mounts rather than plates myself. Dave
I exchanged email with Willie at Rod & Custom today and he told me that, using their crossmember, the Canton pan for the 351c would work. He said that the pan clearence is close using a power rack and much better using a manual rack (which I plan to use anyway). He also told me that those lower a-frame tubes are 22 inches apart. That dimension will help with my mockup. I'm waiting for him to email me back with an answer concerning the width of the lower a-frames so I can see if my headers will hit them or not. The more I look at these pictures, the more I like this set up.
I went and took measurements from a couple of the cars we have done at the shop. The problem is that if you use the stock trans mount location, the back of the front sump hits the steering rack unless you raise the engine or cut the pan. Using a stock Ford double sump pan clears the rack in all cases. This is one of the most common concerns when installing the Mustang II suspension. It is easy to mock up and test fit prior to dropping in the engine. Install the trans onto the block, measure from the trans mount to the back of the front sump. Repeat measurement from trans cross member to front of steering rack. Adjust as needed.
