LOL thanks... Think it'd be OK if I write Chesapeake Blue on the can??? http://www.nationalpartsdepot.com/s...teering_pump_paint_enamel_exact-143996-1.html
Thanks guys... The rear is almost finished, still have to realign bumper... Sets in too far on D/S car appears straight but I suspect it's been bumped sometime in the past... Last night I did the one job I was dreading most, installed the driver door trim... Would be a piece of cake without the window in place, but with it in, it's all but impossible to access the nut that holds the clip at rear of door... Today I'll install mirrors, sill plates and seat belts... Also the back cover on water pump is weeping, looks like I'll have to pull it off and tighten cover...
Real nice job on that restoration. Is the tail panel painted semi/gloss/satin? When I get around to mine I am going to change from the flat black.
Yes it's a semi gloss black, I'll find out exactly what paint was used... Well 'ceptin' for the mirrors and rear, it doesn't look any different than the second pict in thread... I'll be ordering the stripes soon, then it'll have more of a performance look... Thanks but I've never been to Idaho...
That looks great! One question...why did you run the transmission vacuum line from that spot on the manifold and not the one below the carb base? I'm not knocking your decision but I'm making sure I installed mine right by connecting it below the carb base.
It's a temporary hookup, just a old line I had in a box of odds and ends... I'll connect the PCV valve to the vac source at rear of carb and install a factory vacuum tree on the intake as orig for HVAC and trans modulator... The original hookup caused a lean misfire on #7 cylinder, too much air from PCV entering that cylinder... Something like the trans modulator, or HVAC doesn't create a vacuum leak(or at least aren't supposed to), so won't cause A/F ratio issues...