Here are the parts for the stroker V8 that I'm putting together. I can mention the tools that I had to purchase as well, if you guys want. Bore is 4.030, stroke is 3.250, rod length 5.40 SRS flat top piston (part#10666) $60 CNC forged steel rods (10060) $300 Probe ind. street fighter cast steel crankshaft (10019) $240 AFR 185cc cylinder heads (1420) $1400 Probe hydraulic roller camshaft .542/.563 224/232 (112) (11503) $180 Ford SB dominator timing chain (430HDSTR) $50 Hydraulic roller lifters (11660-1) $10 each probe rocker arms 1.6 ratio, 7/16 stud (11274) $270 victor junior Edelbrock intake manifold (2921) $376 This is what I have so far, lots and lots more still needed.
Interior pics Here are a few interior pics. This is after seats and carpet was removed. I think there must have been some flooding of this car because there is mud in the weirdest places. Of course the owner didn't mention nothing about that! :16suspect I'm currently waiting for a few more products that I had to purchase before I can continue working on everything. I am VERY happy with SEM products. I just ordered the satin clear coat so I can finish the panels. In the meantime my home made spray booth fell apart, need to come up with a new idea.
POR 15 for trunk OK, tougher than I thought. First I vacuumed, then I took a metal brush to it and then the air compressor with a brissle brush on it. Then a 120 grit sand paper to roughen up the surface (as if it wasn't already!) Then I was it with a wet rag. And then I took all the drain plugs out and washed the area with water. My POR 15 kit came with marine clea, mix with several parts water and scrubbed it in with a brush. Then washed that off with running water and used air compressor to dry it. I'm already done with the day so I have to stop but next I am going to prep the metal and paint with por-15. I'll keep you all posted.
No kidding, the stuff looks like it really sticks to the metal. My mistake was that I didn't wipe the metal prep stuff off the metal well so the por 15 didn't stick well to those places. It stuck really well to the rust areas because the metal prep stuff reacts on that surface and turns white. But other areas where there is paint or non-rusted metal it takes some scrubbing to wipe the metal prep off (not too much but more than I did ) So I didn't have enough por 15 so I used some other rust paint out of a can for the rest of the areas. But all areas in the trunk that had rust got a good coat of por 15. Here's the pics, it's black but its tough with the crappy lighting.
Here are some more pics of the car. Also I removed the passenger side door and prepping the inside for primer and paint. Not prepping the exterior yet because I'm not sure if I will be doing the painting myself or giving it to 1-day paint. I used a scuff pad to give a good surface to the paint before priming. I will go on with some surface cleaner and tack cloth to prepare for paint later. I will be using a can with rustoleum primer that's gray in color. I used a metal brush for the rusted areas but the rust isn't too bad. Used sand paper 120 grit to clean surface where there was gunk from the weatherstrip. I will do this to the rest of the interior of the car. Gonna be tedious though!
So here is a pic of the lower dash taken out. There is a crack so I'm gonna repair that with some fiberglass, I think bondo makes one. I'm also trying to figure out whether I should take the rest of the dash apart or not. The thing is that I want to install aftermarket A/C. Should I install that now or wait til later? Also, should I go with vintage air or hot rod air for the A/C? There are also some pics of the base of the 2002 mustang seats that I will have to fit still. I bought some scrap metal that I will use for welding. The seat track you see is a fancy shmancy one that connects to a bunch of electronic controls. I decided to keep it because it would have been harder without it. The cardboard piece is the template that I have to work with. I will have to weld in reinforcement because the body metal is thinner than the hair on my head! I used a steering wheel puller (simple!). And for the lower dash it was just a bunch of philips screws, nothing hard.
I've stripped the inside now as much as I can. I decided to go ahead and do the aftermarket A/C installation now before everything goes back together. So I took the entire dash apart too. I've also now finished fitting the driver's side seat onto the maverick floor. I had to weld 3 new legs to properly fit the seat track onto the mav floor. I've also gotten around to prepping one door and putting primer on the interior side of it. But now I'm thinking I'll just do it all at one instead of one piece at a time. I went to 1day auto body and got quoted $1500 for 2 stage paint. $650 for one stage. There is still the charge of stripping the paint by sanding it and a $200 for total color change which will include paint on the engine bay and the inside of the car. They use Dupont Nason paint which is a urethane paint.
I was getting killed at work and on top of everything the winds in So-Cal were so bad it blew my tent off my maverick and now I don't have a cover anymore! Anyway, the engine is out. I am gonna get started on the engine compartment. The wind also blew off my plastic dash and broke it into 2 pieces so I'm gonna be fiberglassing that to hopefully save it. The 250cc engine and tranny don't have a storage place yet. Anyone interested in it let me know. Next I'll be sanding everything on the body. I'll start with 120grit, maybe a little coarser for the engine compartment. I'll also sand the underbody and hopefully POR 15 that before I take it to the body shop.
funny my cover on my maverick blew off today too! hell of windy today! lol! nice work on your car... your putting lots of time into it. btw when do you think you will be done with it? notice your in west LA any change it will be done in april for knotts berry farm?
Man, that would be great. I'll definetly try. I appreciate the words of encouragement. I think it's doable. I just have to get cracking a little. Happy new year everyone!