Been working on the fuel line routing. I originally was going to come straight across from the apron, but there is no strain relief in that design, plus it looks odd to me and is in the way. I had already put a 45 hose end on before I realized this. Fortunately, my buddy suggested going down near where the factory fuel line runs and and lines up pretty good. I need to make one or two brackets to hold the line clamps and finish the hoses and I'm done.
What if you built some sort of loop to capture the fuel line, mounting it with the bolts which hold the fuel pump block off plate?
I got a cheap boroscope as a gift this Christmas, while it is not super hi definition, it sure is handy for creeping around and checking out tight spots. Here are two shots of the clearance between the fuel hat and the sending unit and my trunk floor. There are no clamps on the fuel hat hoses yet. Pretty neat.
Can't wait for when I need to find something I dropped out of sight - it came with a hook and magnet attachment too!
It is this one: https://www.amazon.com/Industrial-Endoscope-YINAMA-Inspection-Waterproof/dp/B07RMXDS8L It is certainly cheaply made, but it has a 16 foot cable. It will NEVER fit in the carrying case after you unravel it. The mirror/right angle adapter is junk.
That is the return line, Frank. You want the fuel to stay oriented in the hose the entire way so it is reversed.
Got out of my comfort zone and tapped the modified AJE Foxbody lowering spindles for the caliper brackets today. I did it on the car, two of the driver's side bolts aren't perfect, but they'll do. After that I got much better and everything threads in nice and flat. AJE does not thread these laser cut holes because folks use differnent brake kits with different threads, they say. Either way, I tapped to 3/8-24 and the "plunge cut" for the laser ate into my thread area. It was also challenging to work the tap handle with the spindle in the way. I'm not a fan of tap sockets for spots like this, as the cut in the threads caused chips to bind up and make it very slow work. Got to work with what you have, I could always back these up with some nuts if I see the need. As an aside, I also tried the late model Ford electric trunk release conversion and I ran into an issue that might be specific to early models. The trunk latch area has two divots on the sides that I tried to route out with a nibbler, but still prevented me from aligning the latch. I could shave them down or cut them out and it might fit. I may look into the thunderbird unit as well.
