My '71 Build

Discussion in 'Maverick/Comet Projects' started by xpsnake, Apr 24, 2011.

  1. yellow75

    yellow75 MCCI Oregon State Rep Supporting Member

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    Yeah sometimes tapping a hole can be challenging to say the least I have a ratcheting tap handle and makes things a little easier because you can always have the handle ears where they feel comfortable I always go a little then back up . Another trick is to put a nut that just fits over the tap and use a 3/8 or 1/2 ratchet
     
  2. xpsnake

    xpsnake Bruce Supporting Member

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    This newer tap handle I have actually fits a 3/8 ratchet so when my hands started to give out on the 6th hole, I actually palmed the ratched handle while holding the ears with my fingers to back it off, worked pretty good.

    Even with the Tap Magic, I had to stop halfway several times and just start fresh, as those cuts just jammed the chips right up in there.
     
  3. xpsnake

    xpsnake Bruce Supporting Member

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    I couldn't have finished this project without my new vise to hold the hubs for the longer wheelstuds.

    I've had a 3" vise that came from a garage at a house I lived in 25 years ago. It's been a good little tool, but it didn't swivel and barely had enough clamping force to hold things.

    I looked at length for vise options locally: Menards, Home Depot, Northern, Lowes. I found that there are two are three generally imported castings. The easiest way to tell them apart is if the swivel base has indexing teeth or not. The Wilton and Irwin castings have this, with the Irwin I believe being an actual clone of the Wilton for 1/2 the price. The Menards brand items were so thin in body casting that the friction locking pins were stripped on every display model. Home Depot had essentially the same, slightly thicker casting. Northern carries real-deal Wiltons. I bought the Irwin. My only complaint is the anvil is too small for hammering 90's out on because the vise body extends past it.
     

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  4. xpsnake

    xpsnake Bruce Supporting Member

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    This is the issue I was having with the release. Photo shows before I cut it down but, the end of the solenoid hits this stamping point. I might try a Thunderbird latch with the remote solenoid.
     

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  5. xpsnake

    xpsnake Bruce Supporting Member

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    Finished my fuel lines. I destroyed $30 in hardware a few months ago when I started. The solution was a little light oil on the threads of the fitting - basic solution I've used in the past but forgot all about.
     

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  6. xpsnake

    xpsnake Bruce Supporting Member

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    I did a bunch of rooting around the forum this weekend. A buddy of mine bid on G.S. Johnson's old magazine '72 Maverick over the weekend. It did not sell. While looking for some build information on that car I came across G.S's posts about where to put the ECU for EFI. I had been planning to build a bracket in the dead space behind the dash in front of the passenger, but it turns out there is a perfect little pocket between the firewall and the heater box, right above the passenger's toes. I am working on a bracket for that.
     
  7. mojo

    mojo "Everett"- Senior Citizen

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    We talking about a non-ac box?
     
  8. xpsnake

    xpsnake Bruce Supporting Member

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  9. xpsnake

    xpsnake Bruce Supporting Member

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    Been a while since I updated. Getting closer with the car. Decided to have a 3.5" aluminum driveshaft made, which fits pretty good. No photos of that so far. I had a buddy box in the rear tank strap bolt hangar, as they had pulled out from the heavier tank (Dennis noted this was an issue with the Mustang tanks as well and recommends reinforcing in his tech article).

    I had been trying to solve the tank vent issue, as I removed the line to the engine bay long ago not realizing that one of the many reasons that line is up there is because that is one of the few places you get get "above" the tank filler level, which is ideally where you locate a vent. Long story short I decided to weld a bung into the filler neck, turned down in a lathe enough that the tail panel could be notched in such a way that you can still remove the whole filler neck. I had originally planned to run a hose down to the rollover valve I have mounted behind the driver's rear wheel, but I realized 5/16 hardline would be easier and cleaner, so here's my install:

    The first photo here shows the bung on top of the filler neck, with the 90 degree fitting in it and the small rubber 90 I used to connect it to the hardline. You can also see where the neck had to be extended to meet the inproperly measured fuel cell (whoops).
    IMG_0765.jpg

    The second photo shows where the hardline comes up by the old leaf spring eyelet and attached to the rollover valve vent.
    IMG_0766.jpg
     
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  10. mojo

    mojo "Everett"- Senior Citizen

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    What is a buddy box? The line going to filler neck for fuel injection return line?
     
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  11. RMiller

    RMiller My name is Rick

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    I like how you ran the vent, I've been working through that one in my head for a while.
     
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  12. TeeEl

    TeeEl New Old Member

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    What kind of rollover valve is that, and where did you get it?...
     
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  13. RMiller

    RMiller My name is Rick

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    I had to read it twice because of the way my phone broke up the sentence. He had a buddy (friend) box (reinforce). I kept thinking I was missing something but once I figured it out I couldn't see why I misread it in the first place.
     
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  14. xpsnake

    xpsnake Bruce Supporting Member

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    You guys got it figured out. Here's a photo of the boxing-in of the strap bolt area:
     

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  15. xpsnake

    xpsnake Bruce Supporting Member

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    It's a Holley or Tanks INC "Remote Mount Rollover Vent" - Tanks has them for $15, Summit for $20, Amazon for $34, lol.
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tnk-vvr

    The vent is for the fuel tank vent only. The send/return lines are on the fuel pump hat. I don't want to be concerned with if I have a vented cap on it or not. This allows me to ensure I have a good place for air to come into the tank.
     
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