I've been thinking that I'd like to get one, but also thinking that in the event of a rollover, gasoline would dump out of the fuel bowls on the carb anyway, in which case, how much is the vent valve really helping (?). The vent on top of the tank is a tiny pin-hole, and I still have the original vent tube running up to the firewall (but no vapor canister anymore). A hose runs from that out through the fender apron to the wheelwell...
If I still had the line going to the front, I wouldn't have bothered with this. I have an EFI setup and the way my tank and vent are set up, it made the most sence.
This is a project for "Mav2" as she's been come to be known. We took a 1200 mile road trip to the GatherUp and a family funeral, going from the St. Louis area, to Bowling Green, KY, through Cincinatti, up north of Dayton, OH, and then back down through Louisville to home. The only noteable issue we had were a minor transmission issue and ... whenever we got caught sitting still in 100+ degree Farenheit temps, the water temp would start to creep, too fast for my liking. The car has a reproduction copper/brass, 3-row, 144 core, 20 1/4 inch core width x 16 3/8 inch core height x 1 3/4 inch core thickness radiator from U.S Radiator #8005-1HH and a Daniel Carpenter reproduction Mustang fan shroud #8146-6. Both are for a 1970 Mustan 302, standard cooling. At the time I was running a 4 blade direct drive fan on a 1" spacer, right about 50/50 on the edge of the shroud. We tried changing the spacer at the meet, with no marked difference. I started doing some math, and this is what I came up with: Derale 17117 Heavy Duty Fan Blade Series 1000 17" Steel Clutch Fan Standard Rotation Hayden Automotive 2711 Premium Fan Clutch 5/16"-18 x 5/8" Hex Cap Screws (these are a specific size, plus lock washers, to mount the fan to the clutch) I also need some, I think 7/8" bolts to mount the clutch to the pulley/water pump I actually originally started with an over 18" fan blade off an early Thunderbird, but it was just too close to my not-centered shroud for comfort. With the original setup, in 95+ degree heat, the car would reach 200 in under 15 minutes. With this setup, it idled for 40 minutes holding at 200.
Finished up the lokar throttle cable kit by adding a short extension to my pedal to allow for more of a a straight pull from the firewall port.
Slow progress. Used my new transfer punches and some scrap aluminum to making a mount for the "main harness" circuit breaker that power the factory harness and my relay panel.
Ages ago I got lazy and cut the rear harness connector below the 1/4 window to get it out of my way. I finally reconnected it with a Molex connector, came out great. I also replaced the fabric wire wrap with some new, modern, wrap. I also replaced all of the lights with LEDs, as I've done on our other cars.
Fixed my ignition switch today. When I installed the NSS I checked the circuit and was getting 20-100Ω of resistance.
My speedometer cable was laying on the new exhaust, so I fabbed up a small bracket to hold it and put a strip of fireflex over it. Should be just fine now.
I also added a fuse box buss bar for later use. Should have taken more time to center it up, but its plenty functional.
