My 71 Maverick Grabber Build.....

Shizzz bad ass, that's nice lets getterdone how much did everything cost bro?

 

I see you were smart enough to get out of there too.....

Thanks, I do not know how much I have spent mostly because I really don't want too..... I don't any attempt to keep track..... I like this hobby and want things a certain way, it cost what it cost.....

 

Well put. Its terrifying how all the little things add up that you didnt count on. I dont keep track on my car at all. I can ball park it but I bet i'm under.

Love the heater hose fittings.

 

Exactly and thanks..... By the way I don't even like to try and ball park it cause that can be scary to thing about.....

 

I hope you get home from over there soon and more importantly safely..... [/quote]

Thank you! 4 more weeks and we're off to FT McCoy, WI for DeMOB.

Can't wait to see the kids.

Are you running a manual disk set up ?

What master cylinder are you using?

I just purchased some disk brake conversion parts, but I'm not sure which master cylinder to use (hopefully a bolt in replacement)????

Thanks,
Jim P.

 

Thank you! 4 more weeks and we're off to FT McCoy, WI for DeMOB.

Can't wait to see the kids.

Are you running a manual disk set up ?

What master cylinder are you using?

I just purchased some disk brake conversion parts, but I'm not sure which master cylinder to use (hopefully a bolt in replacement)????

Thanks,
Jim P.[/QUOTE]

I will be running Willwood vented rotor disc set up in front and some 11" x 2.5" drum on the 9" rear..... I am using an 1.125" bore aftermarket master(it's similar to the Chrysler aluminum with plastic resivour), and it's not exactly a direct bolt on but is not too bad to mod.....

 

I made a couple mods to my Mallory 4309 regulator this week, cut the boss off on the bottom where the return line fitting would go and welded a -8 an return fitting directly against the main body..... Then I scimmed the whole housing in the lathe and polished it..... Today I made the water crossover for the back of the intake and made the new -10 an heater hoses for under the hood..... After that I put the carb back on to evaluate the fuel line layout..... After deciding where to put the fuel bulkheads in the front of the shock tower, I drilled the holes..... Then welded part of the outer tower plate seam while I could easily get to it before welding the bulkhead nuts in place..... Next I mocked up the regulator and tacked the regulator bracket in place, removed the regulator and welded the bracket in place..... Last thing was to bolt the regulator back in and moke the under hood fuel lines.....

Here's a pic of the modified regulator.....




Here is the rear intake crossover, and then a couple of the heater hoses.....






Here is the welde seam and the bulkhead nuts welded in place.....





Here is the regulator bracket welded in.....




These are with the regulator in place and all the fuel lins made.....

 

Man if I had deep enough pockets I wouldn't even work on my car anymore, I would just send it down to you and say build it.... Awesome work your doing....

 

Frank,
Why are you taking water off the rear of the heads where it comes of the rear of the block to go to the heater? The coolant picks up most of its heat from the heads and tapping in at the rear like that would remove coolant that should go to cool the heads.... Won't that make the heater less efficient and cut down the amount of coolant to the heads?

 

Paul,

I am curious how you would suggest to do route the heater lines alternately .... the stock location taps into the manifold crossover at the front. I am failing to see a difference there, so I am thinking you have something else in mind, but you haven't detailed what that would be.

Does the line from the water pump feed the heater or does it draw from it? Always wondered that ...

 

Modified the factory oil pressure extension and mdae the oil pressure line this morning, then I had to cleanup some of my mess.....

 

Hell I don't even have time to work on mine, and thanks.....

I don't have any scinetific facts or technical data to back this up..... It was something that was suggested to me on a car almost 20 years ago that was on warm running bastard, I tried it and the car dropped 20 degrees of running temp..... Since that time I have done it to all my cars and I drive around with a Moroso electric waterpump drive, aluminum radiator, electric fan and my cars never see 200 in the Florida heat..... I have also suggested this on a couple other people's car that were running warm and it has help them too.....

You can believe it or not, I am only stating what I have found to work.....

It's pulling the the back of the block instead of the front..... The line on the water pump draws through the heater core.....

 

Always an enjoyable and informative thread. Keep on keepin' on, Frank, everything looks great!

 

the coolant flows in through the front of the block to the rear of the block then up into the back of the cylinder heads then forward through the cylinder heads into the intake and then to the t-stat.

pulling the coolant for the heater from the back of the intake will provide cooler temps for the heater. now it will still be over 100 degrees that enters the heater core so there should still be plenty of heat going into the interior. the heater dumps its coolant back to the water pump. sense the coolant that is circulating through this circuit is cooler it will lower the temp of the coolant that is constantly circulating through the system.