My '73 Comet GT Restoration Thread

If you need some parts.....I might have an AC box I can part out.

 

Out of curiosity, why the RPM when you can get a manifold from Edelbrock with bungs ready to go? What throttle body do you plan on running? I've thought about something similar so I don't have to run the factory style FI intake. I have the same intake you just bought for my 5.0 and I have a set of Edelbrock fuel rails that work with the 90 degree injector mounting.

 

Thanks Craig, but I'm waiting on the new seal kit and intake bezel.

 

This intake goes with my engine build. The super Vic jr is too much intake for me, and I wanted the shorter airgap for hood clearance. I will probably be going with the Edelbrock 1000 cfm 4150 style throttle body.

 

This morning I finished up drilling out the holes to 3/4". Then I deburred them to take a look at what I would be dealing with. The 3/4" drill bit left alot to be desired with the holes, but what can you expect from a regular drill bit? Atleast the bungs fit! But they were not all true at 90°.





So next I setup up a level and clean work surface to work on each hole and bung individually. I basically just used a small square off of the work surface and a spacer placed up against the bung to check 90°. Most of the bungs leaned outward at the top, so I used the dremel to adjust the holes accordingly. I did not get any pictures of this process, but I hope you get the idea. Once all the bungs were done, I wanted to come up with a way to temporarily hold each side of bungs together at once. Since the bungs are machined, the top and bottom surfaces are nice and true. I ended up using 1/4-20 bolts and 1/4" fuel line to created a stable, centered bolt-able bung.



With a little help from WD-40, the bungs, fuel line and bolts all fit together snuggly.




Then I measured center to center of each hole in the intake. All but one measured 4 3/8". The other measured a hair over 4 5/16". Using those measurements, I drilled some aluminum angle to mount the bungs to. Then I slid them in place and rechecked 90°. They all came out great! The c-clamps are merely keeping the fixtures from falling. Both sides done!






My fuel injectors should be in next week. Once they come in, I can decide on the height of the bungs. Then it is off to the welder for some TIG action. I already have universal -6 AN fuel rail from RMR. Once the TIG is done, I can work on the rails and brackets.

 

Wouldn't it have been easier to just put a throttle body fuel injection system on. like those offered from MSD, Holley, Edelbrock, Quick Fuel, and F.A.S.T.?

 

Could be. But I want sequential multiport fuel injection using a MS3 engine management system. I am learning a lot, doing most of it myself, and when I'm done, I can look at my work and say, yep, I made that. Call me nuts I guess.

 

Hey Nuts, looks good!

 

Thanks, man!

 

You are a man on a mission! Looking good! Did you say you painted the vacuum actuators, or was it just the black part. If not, what did you use for the silver?

Keep up the progress!

 

Thanks, Paul! Yes, I painted the actuators. I just grabbed some silver paint off of our paint shelf. I think it was silver metallic wheel paint, lol. I used the same paint on the box brackets. Wasn't too picky about it.

 

I used Rust-O-Lem, galvanized fence paint on my heater box on all the metal parts. I had a quart can laying around and worked out nice.

 

Injectors showed up today. I'm too busy during the week to work on the intake, so I have to stare at these all week!


They are Siemens Deka #FI114962, 60 lb/hr, 26°cone, 4 orifices, minitimer connector, pico (short) style. I'm trying to keep the fuel injection stuff low and close to the intake. I don't want to have any clearance issues.

 

Didn't get to work too much on the Comet today. Had a side job to complete this morning. In the afternoon I worked on my HVAC box. I took the mustang intake bezel and compared it to my toasted one. It was pretty close. A little dremel work to open the box intake hole was all it took to fall into place. Then I drilled a fourth hole since the mustang hole was to close to the edge. Then I put some strip caulk on the bottom and riveted it into place.






The mustang bezel did not come with the 6" ring on top to hold the cowl seal. So I made one. It fit like a glove.





So, can you use a 1971-73 Mustang bezel to replace your Maverick/Comet bezel? Well, with a little grinding, drilling and sheet metal work, yep!

 

Intake is coming along nicely, and the ac box is looking good too.....