My attempt at a 71 street machine

Discussion in 'Maverick/Comet Projects' started by kansasGRABBER, Nov 20, 2014.

  1. kansasGRABBER

    kansasGRABBER Member

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    Thank you for the corner weights.
     
  2. Bryant

    Bryant forgot more than learned

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    your welcome and i hope they help.
     
  3. mav1970

    mav1970 Bob Hatcher

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  4. kansasGRABBER

    kansasGRABBER Member

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    Heres what I'm thinking for the torque arm support IMG_20141204_200427864.jpg IMG_20141204_200531161.jpg
    With tabs on the top of the housing.
     
  5. kansasGRABBER

    kansasGRABBER Member

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    Will this work?
     
  6. Bryant

    Bryant forgot more than learned

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    i still dont like the flat plate attachment point. i think it will bend. also i think it will bend the thirdmember studs and make it hard to remove the thirdmember.

    this is the way i would mount a torque arm
    [​IMG]

    the front connection needs to be able to move forward and back. it cant just have a pivot.
     
  7. kansasGRABBER

    kansasGRABBER Member

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    Finally got time to work today. Bryant how about this? IMG_20141206_123229742.jpg
    Top plate is now obsolete and coming off
    IMG_20141206_133805485.jpg IMG_20141206_161712216.jpg And I built it with a slider just like the one in your post 6" inside.
     
  8. Bryant

    Bryant forgot more than learned

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    looking pretty good. i dont see any way to adjust pinion angle. did you consider the pinion angle when you built this? i would put links like the oe in the bottom of this arm into the two bars going to the top housing tabs. i would mount the lower bar with some sort of pivot to the plate you have their. i dont thing you need the plate bolted over the third member studs. just the angle iron welded to the housing with some gussets running front to rear and stom tabs to mount a pivot for the lower arm link.
    [​IMG]
     
  9. kansasGRABBER

    kansasGRABBER Member

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    The tops can pivot and the lower red plate is just there for the correct space to keep pinion angle.
    If I ever need more angle I'll cut a spacer for the lower and weld it in front of the red plate was my plan.
     
  10. Bryant

    Bryant forgot more than learned

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    hmmm, now that i think about it, i would put the turnbuckle thingy in the lower mount and leave the top alone. that way you can make exact adjustments. im still not liking the red plate. if the studs its mounted on get bent, you will have a hell of a time removing the third member.
     
  11. kansasGRABBER

    kansasGRABBER Member

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    On to the front suspension once again. Got the roller spring perches built, adjustable upper perches in, and rebuilt the upper a arms IMG_20141210_191216041.jpg IMG_20141210_191155892.jpg
     
  12. Bryant

    Bryant forgot more than learned

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    looking really good. have you considered plating the bottom of the upper and lower control arms?
    also you can rolerize the control arm bushings. http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com/diyupperarm/
    are you going to remove the housing around the outside of the spring to do spring preload adjustments or are you going to put a window in it or leave it off?
     
  13. kansasGRABBER

    kansasGRABBER Member

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    Didn't do roller control arm bushings or lower spherical bearing because it's gunna be a street car and I'm trying to keep the road noise down. and as far as the spring cover I have not thought that far, any suggestions? Would there be any negative effects of leaving them off?
     
  14. kansasGRABBER

    kansasGRABBER Member

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    I plan on boxing the new lower control arms when I get them. I think they take the most force and are easy to box.
     
  15. Bryant

    Bryant forgot more than learned

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    the uppers take most of the force. the spring and shock are acting on them.
    i would not leave the spring cover off. it is the bump stop for the front end. also it will helps hold the shock tower together. its not to hard to remove and you wont be changing the ride height or the spring preloads very often, so i would just re install it as is.
     

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