As usual, great pics and write up I am thinking the spacers were used because the nuts are too close to the metal flanges and a socket will not fit onto the nut without binding..
Any driveshaft from a 79-2004 Mustang will work here. Lots of choices out there for this. I too have a driveshaft vibe, fought it for a year, gave up on ever getting rid of it, but it just may be a pinion anlge problem as I added shims at the first after swapping in the 9". I need to pullem and see now if it goes away. Just waiting on cooler weather before doing it.
I have had the problem with the nuts and the folded flange as well. Dad and I came up with welding a piece of bar stock in the groove on each side and redrilling the holes so the nuts and washers seat on the surface. It's still on the project list, but I thought I would share it anyway.
That's a great idea. I also like the idea of adding a reinforcement 1/4" piece between the bracket and the 9".
update on the 9", it's doing well. We need to drop the rear 1" so we bought these blocks from the metal shop and are going to start work on them next week. The pinion seal leaks, the axle seals leak and the breather I installed is also leaking. So...got work to do. We ordered all new seals and I'll have Bryant install it to make sure it doesn't leak. But the leaks are VERY little, still, no leak to me means success.
So are you just using these blocks for a body lift now that it sits lower..because i have a bronco rear end im about to get shortened and install and i dont want to run into that problem as i put it in, id rather be prepared for it! also did you have it made to exact measurements as the mav or was it shortened a bit more.
Actually, I think he is using those blocks to lower the rear, by increasing the spacing between the leaf springs and diff.
Like Rusty said, we are going to be drilling a hole in the center for a pin to go through and then install it between the leaf and the axle housing.
