I appreciate it, I called CNC and they said that that the throw is normal and should be acceptable, no real answer why they advertise 1 1/8 and only 7/8 throw. I think I am going to modify my fork a bit to use the inside hole vs the outside hole with the shorter throw. I measured last night on my 95 mustang the throw is 1 1/4 using the stock cable setup, but at same time I BELIEVE the sn95 fork is also about 3/4 of an inch longer thn fox fork and a little different cable mounting position. Possible for easier peddle feel. Have not completely confirmed this yet though. so I think using the inside hole vs outside hole should put me at about the same amount of throw. During my research yesterday looks like alot of the classic mustang guys with the same clutch setup recomend using the inside hole vs the outside hole as well.
so i been busy. ive had a hard time geting the system to bleed. i ended up geting rid of the hard line from the mastercylinder to the fire wall. the problem i was having was that an air bubbel was traped in the top of the mastercylinder and i couldnt get it to bleed out. i replaced it with a steel braided line. this allowed me to take the master cylinder down and point its out let streight up. i used a pressure bleeder with only 4 psi on the system per cnc's advice. i then cracked each fitting to bleed the air out. i started at the inlet of the master cylinder, then the out let. then at the fire wall, and then the inlet of the slave cylinder. lastly the bleeder screw on the slave. this resulted in a great pedal feel. before i did this the best travel i could get at the slave cylinder was 1/2 an inch. the slave cylinder has a max travel of 1 1/8" travle. i was geting full travel when i finaly got it all bleed. i also moved the whole master cylinder/pedal assembly further towards the drivers seat to allow for more pedal travel. heres the trans bolted into the bell housing for the final time. heres the master cylinder with the new steelbraid line on it. here the mastercylinder is pointed up so it can be bleed. heres the mastercylinder mounted back where it belongs. here you can see where the mounting location of the bolts on the steering colum. thats all the pics i have. ill take some more and post them later. the shifter location is alittle far foward and the short handle of the pro 5.0 makes it a little worse. im going to make a new shift lever that moves the handel further back. i test drove it today. its great. its the feel that i was missing in my car.
i had to move the mounting flange foward on the slave cylinder bracket. now the mounting holes for the slave cylinder line up with the front hole where the bracket mounts to the transmission. here the slave cylinder is mouted to the bracke on the trans.
so i took some more pics of things that i did for this instalation and i took care of the brake pedal pad. heres the resevoir. heres the plate that i welded to the brake pedal. i put a nut under the top hole to get the angle of the pad right. heres the rubber pad on it.
ok so ive been driving the t5 for about a month now. its awsom. my car is now very fun to drive. its what ive been missing sence ive had it on the road. today i finally got my center stack put back in the car after having it modified to to clear the shifter. i got one of those hurst rubber shifter boots to seal the hole in the trans tunnel. im still useing the chain shifter with a 95 cobra leather wraped shift knob on it. i like the chain shifter and kinda dont. its painted black and is pretty subtle and doesnt really stand out in the black interior. i dont have a good pic of it right now. ill get one and put it up.
Re-read this about 4x and thanks to your help got a FIRM understanding on how to complete this project on my own!
