Im looking for some suggestions to improve my braking over what I have. Im looking for pads, rotors, master suggestions for the short term. Ive got manual disc brakes from a 75 Mav on the front, and drums on the rear on a 9". Still using the 70 stock Master cylinder and proportioning valve. Ive bought a master cyl for a 93 Ranger but have not installed yet. This is supposed to increase pressure. Suggestions? Thanks
I'm thinking of all those kits with beefed up calipers and rotors, but wouldn't even those manufacturers recommend you apply them to cars with power brakes? I'd vote power brakes are the next step, then rear discs, then beefed up calipers and rotors. Just my two cents. MD
Back in the day the mfgr's only offered disc brakes with power assist... Why??? Increased pedal effort vs manual drum... I have '69 Torino brakes on mine and pedal effort is high... Exact same brakes with power assist on my Cobra Jet will put you through the windshield with far less effort... AND that's in a vehicle that weighs probably 750Lbs more than the Comet... Effort is directly proportional to bore size of master cylinder, the larger it is the harder pedal will be... Decreasing bore size will soften pedal but add pedal travel... So in a nutshell, it's all about the relationship of MC piston to caliper bore size...
Good discussion. The correct master cylinder and proper proportioning are critical in getting the proper feel when undertaking a brake conversion. I've read a number of comments on the web where someone has upgraded to disk brakes only to be disappointed that so much peddle pressure was required to stop the vehicle. Even the OEMs can get it wrong. My old 96 Explorer felt as if I was trying to bring an 18 wheeler to a stop despite having disks on all 4 wheels.
Another thing to consider if you're looking to race in controlled straight lines a fair bit more than canyon carving. OEM's target reduced rear drum brakes torque(effectiveness) during straight line stopping just to help protect people and property. Remember how these cars handled way back then with those skinny little grocery getter bias plys? Downright SCARY by todays standards! Well, that's what your cars prop valve was designed for. Those who don't know how to drive very well(TONS of them out there, regardless of skill level, everyone gets same license off the bottom of the cracker jack box)... or might be faced with panic stops around corners(uhhh, helloooo.. don't freak out!!!.. leaf springs.. maybe learn to modulate the brakes apply pressure?).. too many beerfriends.. maybe cheapskates with bald tires.. or in my case through the years.. I burn up most of the rear tire before I ever get to the corners. On the plus side.. rear drum brakes fade so damned badly at really high speeds you end up with a rear anti-lock brake setup going deep into the corners anyways. lol Point is this. Change the prop valve to an adjustable design and enjoy that extra little bit of straight-line "pull down" on the big end. The rear squats and settles in a tiny bit(depends on brake torque availability.. 9" drums won't be huge) and you can literally feel the rear brakes starting to pull the chassis. I've used adjustable prop valves on several cars.. they're great for tuning to specific usages and far more left in those rear brakes than most give them little drum brakes credit for. My '69 Mustang coupe had one that worked great, probably same exact setup as this car. A drum brake actually has better initial bite than a disc due to extra pad area.. just can't get carried away overdo it or you'll smoke the drums on at the end of the track.. glazing/warping and replacing them too often. Especially if you have an upgraded suspension with stickier tires/relative to the ones the car was designed for at the time. PS.. just keep in mind that in an extreme case like losing a rear tire on the big end.. you need to be damned sure your heads on straight about the prop valves setting while you're working the brakes. Then again.. too much front brake bias can also make the rearend come around while you're trying to correct too. Just another variable to be aware of, is all.
