Well, I got on the phone with wagesofsin and did the following:\ 1) adjusted floats 2) adjusted idle and idle mixture 3) plugged that vacuum port I was using and put a nipple in the front metering block, so now I have 14* initial and almost 40* all out (off my balancer scale that goes to 30) Doesn't burn the eyes as bad now. Also, bought a Holley rebuild kit and will tear it down tomorrow, and let it soak a few days before reassembling it. Got help from maverickkidd who kicked the key on and off as needed...
Sounds like progress... So when you get to read the pages of eternity, you will know WHY you adjusted and tweeked what you did, maybe.
40 degrees total? Is that including the vacuum advance or was that disconnected when you plugged the nipple on the carb? 40 degrees is about 6 degrees more than you should run. Most of the FSB's run best with 32 to 36 with the majority right in the middle at 34. (with vacuum disconnected and vacuum advance zero'd)
40 degrees total was vacuum attached, running around 2500 rpm. I have it set at 14 initial, which is about 8 more than stock, which would agree with your suggestion that my 40 is about 6 too much. It is an estimate. My degree markings stop at 30, so I am guessing it is about 40, plus or minus a couple. Idle mixture screws on the sides of the front metering block...started at 1-1/2 turns out on both, then set idle at 800, no vacuum, and started to tighten them until the idle dropped to a point where it would not sustain an 800 idle, and/or it would, but wouldn't start back up if I turned it off. Kicked it back in at 45 degree turns until idled at 800 and restarted without problems. Ended up around 7/8 turn out from seated, if I remember correctly.
Maybe i've been doing mine wrong but it has worked for me. I put a vacuum gage on a vacuum circuit, the one on the manifold in the rear. I start with the screws 1 1/2 turns from seated, then I turn them ever so slightly untill I get the highest reading.
How does it smell after you do that (sounds funny, but serious question). I would be willing to try that and see where it ends up compared to how I did it this time.
Holley recommends setting the idle screws with a vacuum gauge and tach IIRC. You are looking for the maximum vacuum signal at the idle speed you want. So you have to play with both rpm and idle screws together to find the sweet spot. Then turn the screws back in, till the idle drops, now back it back out to the correct idle again. This makes sure you are not too rich.
Oh, and by the way, before anyone thinks wages is an idiot, I wrote what I DID in the post, not exactly what he TOLD me to do. I used his instructions to get the gist of what I needed to do, and today, I pulled the carb and completely dismantled it and it is soaking in cleaner waiting for a rebuild this weekend. He was just giving me the basic "how to" on setting the floats and idle. I was trying to follow his directions, fix leaks, add nipples, and plug up holes as I went along.... At the time, there was no nipple in the metering block for the vacuum, which is why I did the measurements without a vacuum. Since I have your attention...are 65 and 68 jets ok for my application? That is what I found inside and I am not sure what stock was. The more I tear into this carb the more I see has been altered, so I am not sure what is stock and what is modded, but is seems to run pretty good. Still needs a rebuild since I have no idea how old it is and how long it has been sitting.
What size is the carb again? Those jet sizes are very small IMO. The stock jets in most Holleys are too small. I have a 650 DP and it likes ~70 up front and ~78 out back. This engine is very mild too. My more rad 306 with 700 DP liked ~74 and ~82. The 600 vac I just took off had roughly 70s up front too. Stock jets in this carb size range are ~66 primary. Forgot what the rears are stock.
Eyes don't burn and no smoke so... Yea, I forgot to mention watching the RPMs. LOL! And now I remember taking my tach loose and turning it around as it sits on the dash anyway. You might not want to let it soak too long. It will affect the looks of the goldish plating. There arent really that small of areas that are hidden or unseen. You can soak over night and that should do it. Agitation or swishing it does wonders. I shoot carb cleaner through the small holes (watch the spray back going to your eyes) and you can see where it exits.
My plating isn't too much "goldish" now as it is. Luckily, I have a large air cleaner to cover the carb. It will look ugly, but hopefully run good. Luckily, all the parts I pulled apart looked un-"bunged"...there were no banged up or stripped out threads as I pulled it all apart... AND, I am hoping that small jets will work for my small application...this is a 750 DP on a 308... I have absolutely no idea what the previous owner(s) have done to this carb...
