This Corvair is in the unlimited class, going 200mph+. I'm getting a pretty good idea of what I need to do.
I've seen articles showing how they work but cannot find it. Yes, it would help... Here is something on the Trans Am heat extractors. http://www.2gta.com/featurei.html Here is a good article Hot Rod Magazine did a few years ago http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/body/hdrp_0609_aero_tricks_tips/ If you still have a stock hood, I'd consider doing something like this. or even something like this. I believe these style vents can be purchased. Just simply cut out the holes and insert the vents. This may look good on my hood with the non-functional hood scoop.
Heres another link with some great info: http://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...with-Aerodynamics&highlight=aerodynamics+hood and here are some vents you can use http://www.visracing.com/newcatalog/Universal/Exterior/All-Year-4514/Scoop/Fiber-Glass?page=1
notice the extremely small front openings used in high speed cars? back to a previous comment about raising the rear of the hood to cheaply and effectively vent underhood pressures actually resulting in increased underhood pressure build up due to the high pressure area at the base of the windshield... never gonna happen due to the larger grill/fascia and frontal area of cars from this era. And while I do agree that the molded in/inserted vents do look much better than using washers to prop the rear of a hood up.. you will need to actually test underhood pressures at over 100mph to better understand how much air actually smacks these types of cars in the face at speed. And the volume of air that gets forced under the floorpan of the car would amaze you as well. You will need fairly large vents.. or multiples.. to equate to enough ported surface area to really efficiently vent that engine bay. Even an open style cowl hood will push the yarn outwards at higher speeds(it just wiggles around at lower speeds).. as the frontal areas air intakes overpowers the pressure build up at the base of the windshield. Even my s10 Blazers Harwood reacts in that manner and the windshields on those trucks is certainly not what you would call areodynamic compared to many other cars.. including this one. Lower the ride height.. dam or spoiler it.. and then work on exhausting what still builds up underhood and gets squashed under the car. If you don't want to go to all the trouble of testing underhood pressures?.. yarn and duct tape has been proven effective by many professional racers in the past too. The more strips you use.. the better the visual evidence of where the flow is moving over the car like wind blowing over fields of tall grass.
Another great article. http://www.up22.com/Aerodynamics.htm#Drag I need to get my car running again so I can try some of this out.
