Hey guys, In need of some help fast. I am doing disc brakes all the way around on my 1970 maverick. I have already swapped the rear end out and it runs great. I haven't changed the master cylinder or anything. I really need to get the front done soon. So my question is will I need to change master cylinders, and what about a proportioning valve? Thank you!
with out know the sizes of the calipers and master cylinder bore its hard to know for sure. you can just install the disk brakes, bleed them and see how much pedal effort is needed. i would suspect it will be just fine. next you will want to see if their is any drag on any of the brakes. if their is drag then the master cylinder or proportioning valve has residual check valves that are holding too much pressure on the brakes. these are usually in the master cylinder. they can be removed but i would replace the mastercylinder. you will know how much pedal effort is required to stop the car by driving it with the original master cylinder. if you need to change it you and improve the pedal effort if you feel its necessary by putting in a master cylinder with a smaller bore. for the proportioning valve, you need to do some heavy stopping from about 35mph and see if the rear wheels lock up before the fronts. if they do then you need an adjustable valve to dial down the pressure to the rear.
ok awesome thank you. so if I do need a new master cylinder will this one work? http://www.ebay.com/itm/74-FORD-MAV...rd|Model:Maverick&hash=item43e00af902&vxp=mtr if it helps at all, the brakes run fine. With disc on the back and drums on the front it doesn't lock up at all.
you dont know what master cylinder you need till either you drive the car and know how the pedal effort is or if you find out the piston sizes of the front and rear calipers and then do the math to figure out the proper master cylinder size. a real 4 wheel disk brake mastercylinder will have a bigger reservoir than a drum brake mastercylinder. the one you linked to has a small reservoir for the rear brakes.
as stated, you need to get it all together first. here is my disc/disc M/C. it's plumbed straight to the calipers (no prop. valve)... my larger rear tires are the bias.
Ok perfect, I plan to do it tomorrow. So I should just swap the drums and leave the master and see how it goes, if it doesn't have enough braking then figure out what size master cylinder I will need.
brand...Strange http://www.summitracing.com/parts/str-b3359ta?seid=srese1&gclid=CJSAv-Dzj8cCFZU2aQodciMCMw
I have rear brakes from a crown vic and factory disk up front making it disk all the way around and I used a master cylinder from a 97 ford ranger. its cheap and I didnt have to change anything else. the lines fit right it no adapters nada bolt in bleed and go. now my car stops easily at any speed without drag. I MIGHT have a hundred bucks into my brake system by time I bought the parts at the junkyard and went to buy new pads and master cylinder at autozone
Did the conversion! Didn't swap master cylinder or use proportioning valve. Swapped all new disc brake stuff and it works great. Pedal has a good feel and stoppage. I was only able to get the back brakes to lock up once going downhill and I had to stand on the brakes with two feet and still one locked up for maybe a foot. Put 15x7 American racing wheels on. 225/60/15 245/60/15. What you guys think?
It seems fine. It breaks and handle better than before. I let my boss drive it and he says it handles amazing for that old of a car. He has been restoring cars for 40 years.
I have the rear Crown Vic discs with Maverick Front discs. I am using a Disc/Drum Maverick master cylinder, with Drum/Drum proportioning valve, and I have added a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve in the rear main line under the car. I don't know how it works yet, but I am assuming the additional proportioning will be required in the rear due to the larger rear discs. I wanted to keep my stock brake lines under the hood.