yea im trying to find more on it and it looks like that what is was mainly for emissions. the owner of the car before me said it was from a 80's mustang so i guess that would seem right
I was glancing over the tech link in the link and it's pretty informative. Check the choke. I also like how it details what all the nipples are for.
cool yea ill do that tomorrow because as of right now there is no pipes on the nipples. just the one for the secondary valves.
so there if im looking at the pic right a tube that goes from above the choke to below the choke for a fresh air intake. ill have a look at that in the morning and see what happens
I didn't read in the instructions about the choke closing when cold. First thing I do is press the gas pedal all the way. Then I check to verify that the choke closed and see how much resistance it has with my finger, vehicle off. Then I start it. Maybe a couple more pumps might be needed but should not need more than about three total. Once started it should be idling around 1600. After a few secounds, about 10-20, the choke should be opening. It should be still at fast idle untill the gas pedal is pressed again. We kinda veared from your inital complaint but it doesn't hurt to know how things should be working and acting to help point towards where the problem is and eliminate what is working. Your problem is most likely trash in the lines and now in the carb. Thinking about that, you might want to clean them out before actualy trying to do any fine adjustments to the carb. After cleaning them out add a good inline filter.
well i took the air cleaner off and manually pulled the linkage all the way open and the top door closed all the way when i let go. now when i start it up i have to pump the gas a little and then hold it a little open to idle and warm then after about a min i can let it hold the idle on its own. like before ive had to do this since ive gotten the car about a month ago now. and from what your saying the choke should do that right? i took out the screen and there was very little rust bits in the cup. i cleaned it out and put it back in for the moment. the stock fuel line that comes from the pump doesnt have a big enough gap between the line and the carb to but in the inline filter, when i get one. should i just get a new stainless steel braided hose to put in place of the old line to give me room? and here is a pic of the choke side of the carb and there is no tube that is shown in the holley pages that is around the carb could that be the main choke problem?
You should not have to hold the pedal. Sounds like the fast idle is not set. That fresh air hose is to help remove any moisture or condensation from the elect choke, if i'm not mistaken. Doesn't really affect the performance. Did you not find a brass or copper filter in the carb? Yes, you can replace the hose and add the filter. Braided hose is not the easiest to cut but that is what I would use. You can put it in place then mark where you want the filter and cut out/splice by tightly wraping the spot where you are going to cut. Use a hacksaw, unless you have access to the correct style cutters or someone with them.
If there was rust in the screen...There is rust in the carb. Listen to Blu and set the fast idle so you dont have to keep your foot on the gas... Holleys most certainly do not like dirt in em at all...Good luck!!!
yes i found the filter screen and there was rust flakes in it but not alot and cleaned just the filter. so ill order a new line and filter that i can see through. and then set the fast idle and thats under the choke housing right?
and idk what the idle was at i dont have a tach installed i have one just have not found the wires to attach it to from under the dash
Fast idle set screw should be between choke housing and carb body...You'll see it,its the only screw/bolt over there on the linkage. As for the tach...you wont find tach wires in a maverick(never had em) You have to run your own.
