My friend Mike, came over and held the door, so I could bolt it back on for now, I rebuilt the hinges, it makes a huge difference.
Looking great, It's nice to have help, I had a rough time with my doors but a floor jack and some well placed 2X4's did the trick.
I have the door adjusted just how I want it. Now that it is set, whenever I remove it I just pull the pin. That way every time I install/ uninstall it I know it will go back exactly where I want it.
That will come soon enough, I kinda wanted to get the door, up off the floor for Spring, and hopefully get it primed...
I too, have removable pins in in my driver door hinges. I love the idea of lining the door up and being able to pull it and returning it to perfection easily. One thing to be careful of is that you need to have the pin installed with the head pointed down on the upper hinge if you want a shot at removing it later. Don't know if the passenger hinge has the same requirement. Same-hinge-flipped makes me suspect you might want to look into that. Fortunately, I found out because I had to pull the door soon after I had it back in place. Still burned me up to unbolt the hinge again. I don't think my passenger door will ever get rebuilt. It still closes like it is 1972 ... ka-thunk .... It is a beautiful sound. I can only get the driver's door close to sounding that good. But mine started out sounding like a metal trash can getting bounced off the back of a garbage truck. Progress ... a good thing ....
Did some more work on the console, I test fitted it with the shifter hump from the factory floor shift, it stills has about a 1/4" clearance to the bottom of the package tray. Non-floor shift automatics will have roughly 1/2", it's tough to make this fit all cars, but as with anything, with the variances, you may have to do some tweeking. If you have me on Facebook, I've posted more pictures there.
