Mark..It may take a while but the pictures will come.After browseing I see I may do progress pictures also if I'm able..Joe
Here is a shot of the clearence issues I have with the new billet master cylinder from ABS using tall valve covers on the Cleveland. As you can see, there will be no power brakes in this car unless I can find a booster only an inch or so thick.
Bob, is that a phillips screw I see in that lid? I hope your going to change it out with a SS allen head. :bananaman They do come in countersinks. Hey just a thought but you say that it's only temporarily impossible so make it true. Build a bracket to mount the booster on inside of firewall and master outside. It's tight but I have done it before in a 64 Falcon. I used a booster out of a late 90's f-150 I think. Thin and not to big around. I had to reshape the pedals a little bit but it worked out just fine. Like I said, just a thought.
A stainless Allen bolt sound like a good idea on the lid. Now on to the interior booster - have you looked under the dash of a manual pedaled Maverick lately? Have any pictures of that Falcon booster?
Wish I was smarter when I did a lot of stuff over the years and had taken pics but as Candie will tell ya camaras and I are not a good match. I can draw it up or tell you just how I did it. I didn't say it was easy just that I did it. I had to build a new bracket to hang pedals and turned pedals around backwards so they curved forward moving the pivot point towards dash which called for new design of column brace. I cut the lower section off of the pedal arm and turned it 180 degrees locating height, pedal to floor back to factory specs. You have to measure push rods for brake and clutch for extending them to reach new location of the arms. All the other misc items like pedal stops and so on came be altered after you get throw of pedals calibrated. Not impossible, the engineers at Ford just designed it wrong so we, the true engineers need to fix it. P.S. If ya want to really get carries awy, mock up the pedals using the old ones then build them out of aluminum. Probably look real sweet.
Thanks Alabama,..Over the last few years I relized by putting old cars on on the road ,todays old timers have kindled the intrest in the younger generation the love building themselves,just like the oldtimers did for us when we were the new generation.Hope the cycle never ends..Joe
Bob..Your clearancing problem looks to be more severe with your cleveland than mine with the windsor.If memory serves me right,if I did not insist on useing roller rockers and needing tall valve covers,I might have room with stock covers..Now I may also have more room because the windsor may be smaller and/or will sit lower due to the Must.II style frontend ,also the shock towers no longer exsist..In fact getting rid of the towers was 80% of the reason for the Must.II change..make more room for possible big block(460) in the future...Again,untill I slip the engine back in and finalize the motor location and mount fabrication,I will not know..I love the suggestions comeing in,hope they keep comeing,more info more choices...Joe
Joe- -Actually I had a problem getting the Cleveland as low in the chassis as I wanted because of the Mustang II suspension cradle. I was limited by the cut out in the Canton oil pan. I dropped the rack 1 1/2 inches and that helped a lot. I now use a set of bump steer correctable rack ends to re-level the rack to the spindles since I dropped the rack. If I used the type of bottom A-frames that require my rack to be spaced out forward, I would have been in more trouble. I would also have liked to move the engine back closer to the firewall but I took it back until the pan cut out almost hit the rack then where else can you go?
Mark, what I'm thinking right now is to remove the left side of the pedal frame where it mounts to the inside firewall. Move it outboard so the new master cylinder is now within the 4 mounting tabs like the stock one was. Then do some offsetting of the brake pedal or add something to the pedal to get the pedal rod to line up once again with the master cylinder . Of course, this is all in my mind right now as it's way way too cold to me to be crawling under my dash right now.
Bob..I'm going to do a little home work,I may have a solution with a chev item..but I need to know what distance you need between the valve cover and the firewall?..Joe
Mark...I'm going to check out that f 150 booster assembly you used to see if it is more compact than the pinto/Must. one I've got.I would rather use a more upto date booster...Joe
