I could be wrong but I kind of think a good progressive controller would make it a lot easier on the engine.
At 150 shot any good brand is ok. 150 shot is limit of the small solenoids so bear that in mind. You can buy all kinda goodies for NOS but I like to keep it simple. Less to worry about. All I run is arming switch and WOT switch. Also the best thing I built is my water bath bottle heater. It keeps bottle pressure consistent run to run.
I have done a lot of research on NOS usage. Not only people that have had success but more importantly those who have had catastrophic meltdowns and other failures. Your setup should handle 150 with no problems. One thing that you need to keep in mind s that 90% of all NOS failures is the engine going lean. My suggestion is that you run a completely separate fuel system for your NOS kit. Something that will hold 14 PSI of fuel pressure with the NOS activated. This will almost completely remove the chance of the system going lean. I hop you have luck with the system, it is a whole nother beast with the button pressed.
If you like doing engine work all the time,taking them in & out of your car,rebuilding them,then turbo charging & NOS & prochargers are great.Me personally,I`ll stick with a N/A setup,not as many headaches & a lot more reliable.
This engine at this altitude(6300) 11's. Want 9's out of this car once I do the stroker though 347 on a dart block on nitrous want 700/800 to the wheels
Been there, done that, and documenting as a personal historical endeavor! Opposite ends of the spectrum. If you are racing, boost applications are certainly required to remain competitive. Enjoying a leisure drive is a totally different approach. To each his own. But I would argue that today's availability of crate N/A motors with respectable numbers are nothing to sneeze at; that's the route I've chosen for the future as well.
Some may think so , but I'm running 10.2@130 now with a pump gas (91) N/A motor. I find it real easy on my wallet.
these kinds of debates have been going on since this stuff was invented. lol IMO, entry level N2O kits are cheap and easy ways to up power and is obviously why they are so popular. Some guys I know also use them on boosted cars to help come up on the boost/spool faster.. or even on the higher powered N/A setups as insurance to keep them from getting their asses handed to them by the bigger dollar combo's. The reality for any street car is this. With so many bigger stroker combo's and the sheer volume of EXCELLENT cylinder heads being made these days(lack of head flow is what makes turbos and N2O so appealing to lower budget/OEM head designs) to push N/A power higher than ever before.. why would you want to rent your power on an as needed basis?.. when you can bite the bullet by spending more up front to actually own it and use it any time you see fit by simply pushing the peddle a little deeper. If you are going aftermarket block it makes no sense to build a small bore motor anymore. Build a 363 vs a 347 and you'll also free up the heads from bore shrouding and allow more valve size options and potential airflow in the process. If they can be sufficiently fed.. bigger cubic inches always rule. For a dedicated race car?.. N2O on highly developed bigger dollar parts combo's is hard to beat unless you buy your turbo's in pairs or buy one the size of a small Volkswagen motor. lol And FWIW.. power adders can easily eat ring lands/pinch rings FAR faster than an N/A motor ever will. N/A running really short pin heights/high ring positions and also using ultra thin ring packages would be about the only exception there.
Nah I want a 347 the whole combo I'm looking at will be around 900/1000 at the flywheel on nitrous I'm building it for nitrous so I can still drive it on the street and not be to radical that I have to spend $10 a gallon on race gas all the time. I may eventually change my mind and go a complete different way when it all comes down to it. I'm building a cheap fun car for right now that I can have fun in and go play at the track and be a little fast with a press of a button. All these fox body mustang guys swear up and down the do a 200+ shot all day long at the track for years on a stock bottom end. So I thought a stock bottom end 302 with forged pistons be ok on a 150 only hitting it in 2nd through 3 and only turning 6300 rpm on a wet shot so plenty of fuel with the the timing in spec for the kit. That was mainly the question has anyone had luck with it.
