Hello everyone, I have a 74 Ford Maverick with the 3 speed automatic inline 6 cylinder and it’s been down for about 8 years. I got it as a birthday present when my mom bought her 76 maverick. It hadn’t ran in 20 years, we had the tank dropped sealed and everything running. Two years later the transmission starts having problems shifting and everyone told me I needed a rebuild or swap. I was in college at the time and couldn’t afford so I bought a car and let it sit. Now that I’m established a bit I want to get it back in running condition. I obviously have to get the old gas out,replace some rubber lines and oil, but I’m not a mechanic and don’t know what steps to take. I don’t like going to a shop for repairs because of bad experiences with having to pay for half effort work. Any videos or manuals you folks can recommend to get me started in a general direction. I’m sure I’m going to have to pay for any major work done due to lack of tools and experience, but just getting it running I’m sure I can handle. I appreciate any help. Thank
YouTube may be your friend for some of the things in the realm of videos. 1st. priority, change brake fluid, new master brake cylinder, rear wheel cylinders and front calipers if so equipped. Also, inspect drums, shoes, rotors and if rear seals are leaking that will be evident when your in the rear drum inspection. If leaking grease, that will have to be fixed to keep from ruining brake shoes..
Welcome to the forum, you came to the right place to ask questions about your Maverick. Can you please elaborate on your “problems shifting” (eg, shift leaver won’t move or sticky, doesn’t shift from 2nd into 3rd. when placed in drive, ect). Then I’m sure someone can help you out.
Welcome to the site from northeast Ohio!!! Check out the on line Maverick Comet repair manual using the following link: http://1bad6t.com/Maverick/repair/repair_index.html
Welcome.... Your best bet in my opinion is meeting new friend or friends with an old car or truck same make (ford or mecury) as your car. He be glad to teach you what he knows or you both can learn together. Best thing is when you broke down you'll have someone to call.
The car if I'm not mistaken because it's been a while wouldn't shift from first gear to the higher gears. I could go Reverse and 1st
Sounds like a sticking valve body, here’s a old trick that may be worth a try. Put the rear of your car on some jack stands (tires off the ground) run car till transmission is at operating temperature, make sure fluid is full then pour a bottle of 99% isopropyl alcohol in the transmission and run it through all the gears. It may take some time to get it cleaned up and working 15 minutes + or-.
I'm in the process of reviving a '73, which had napped in a garage for 30 years. I'm two years into the project and wish I'd known what I know now when I started. A few tips you might find helpful. 1. As Mojo said, YouTube is your friend. Even more so is this forum. I can't can't the number of times I needed information and it was here. Go slow, take your time and ask questions; this is doable but not easy. 2. You identified your first priority, getting rid of the old gas. Don't syphon with your mouth; get a fuel transfer pump at an auto-parts store. Disposing of the old gas is easy if you have household hazardous waste collection site in your county. If not, you have to be creative. "A guy I know" disposed of five gallons by fueling an irritating neighbor's F150 in the middle of the night. Presto: the old gas was safely vanished. 3. Next is an oil and filter change before starting up. Motor oil chemistry changed during the 20-odd years your car has been hibernating. Because your engine has a flat-tappet cam, it needs lots of zinc in the oil to prevent wear, especially on startup. There are several brands to choose from; google for more information. I use Lucas Z-Rod 10W10, {correction: should read 10W30} which is expensive and only available locally at a speed shop. 4. Before its roadworthy, you're going to need to flush the brake fluid, change the coolant and buy a new battery and tires. None of those things ages well. Maverick tip: don't fill your radiator all the way to the top, but only cover the fins by about 1/4-inch, as seen through the filler opening. This is different than modern cars. The extra air space in our upright radiators is needed for expansion. 5. As for your transmission, expect you will eventually have to have it rebuilt. Fortunately, the C4 has full parts availability. Call around local transmission shops, some will have some "old people" who will be happy to work on them. Although my transmission operates fine, it leaks prodigiously and is going to need a rebuild. Got quoted $1,500 for a rebuild if I pull it, $2,000 if they pull the trans. 6. You said you're not a mechanic. Me, neither, but it sounds you can get there. Before wrenching, carefully read the safety warnings in the front of every shop manual. Many parts of the car will bite if you're not careful. 7. Lefty Loosey, Righty Tighty. It's easy to get disoriented and tighten things you intended to loosen, especially if you're working upside down. My own mental trick is to imagine there is a clock face on the bolt I'm working on. Clockwise is tighter, counterclockwise is looser. Best of luck on your project! (Since I'm also not a mechanic, I welcome corrections to this post)
A coolant recovery system can be added to any older engine so it can be filled as are modern engines. That said I have one on my Comet but not on either the Fairlane or Cobra. If coolant is too full, extra will be pushed out overflow, no harm. Oil requirement is blown so far out of proportion it isn't funny. Naturally the marketers of boutique oils want you to buy their product, so they make one think it's a have to have, not so in all cases. IF you have a fresh rebuild or Hi-Po engine with high pressure valve springs, the extra zinc will be beneficial(use something like Valvoline VR1). In older engines with low lift cam, and light pressure springs, probably any high mileage oil is fine(generally has zinc of approx same concentration as oils in mid '60s). My 428 has moderate lift cam and pressure springs & I'm using Quaker State 10W-40 high mileage. The high mileage oils often reduce oil leakage, the QS stopped a rear main drip in my 428 that had been there for last 30 or more years. HD oils for diesel usage used to be the go to for extra zinc, but AFAIK it's levels have been reduced as well. Last I heard the exception is Motorcraft 15W-40, exactly what is in the Comet 5.0. Please enlighten us on the 10w-10 viscosity, I've never heard of such. In extreme cold locals oils like 0w-10 are available, but I've never seen such in the lower 48 and would not reccomend its usage if it were.
Nice catch, thank you very much. I spell like a needrethall. Text should read "Lucas Z-Rod 10W30." I live in a moderate climate and run the manufacturers' recommendation weight in all my cars. Lucas Oil has a good reputation in this part of the world, but I'm not endorsing any particular brand. That said, high zinc and phosphates are a thing in older engines; it's the way oil was made in the 1970s. Flat-tappet failure is a real thing, too, especially in cars woken from the dead. I spent time in the air-cooled VW community where the flat cam thing was a plague. However the evidence of the cause is inconclusive. I'd recommend erring on the side of caution with an engine that has not run in a long time. Radiator overflow topic was a tip for a new mechanics. The natural inclination is to fill the radiator to the top. If you do that to a Ford from the '70s, it will barf coolant as soon as the engine warms. That surprises a lot of new mechanics and they think the car is overheating. Madcap hijinks ensue -- funny unless you're the one trying to figure out whats going wrong. Someday, SuperLotto providing, I shall put a fuel-injected roller-cam 5.0 in my car and forget everything I think I know about motors from the age of disco.
Shop around for a tranny rebuild. Maybe things are higher in California, but I can get a C-4 trans rebuilt if I take just the tranny to them for $750
