Not sure what I am doing... but I just impulse-bought a '75 Maverick

Welcome! Very nice 500 buck car. I bought mine for that but that was several hundred ago, and I am far from driving!

 

Thanks for all the input guys! Finally got it home and I am pretty sure it needs new rod bearings. I was originally going to replace the engine completely but it is the original with only 44k miles on it so its definitely a better idea to rebuild it right?

My plan is to completely rebuild the engine (to replace the bearings and familiarize myself with it) over the winter in my barn, than have it road legal and roaring by next summer.

There is also smallish dent on the side, but I have seen some basic tutorials on youtube on how to pull them out. Any suggestions on the best practice for that? I am willing to take it to a body shop as long as the price is reasonable. Any price estimates too? Pictures of the dent attached.

 

Why do you think the engine needs rod bearings? Does it have a engine knock? Even if you have to rebuild the engine, car looks like a good buy.

 

Yea it definitely has an engine knock, hopefully its just the bearings not the rods themselves! Its been sitting in the guys garage for 20 years, I want to take everything apart and clean it all as well. I am surprised it even starts if i'm being honest. But as you said even if I have to get a whole new engine, everything else is completely solid its still probably worth well above 500 bucks.

Any suggestions on things to try before replacing the bearings? Do any of those "Engine fixer" fluids do anything to rod knock? Spending $20 on some fluid is at least worth trying right?

 

you could probably drain the oil, remove the pan and check the rod and crank bearings. while your at it replace the oil pickup and pan gasket. id suggest buying a 1975 ford shop mechanics manual that will have details on the motor like torque specs and step-by-step procedures before opening the motor up

 

I'll start looking online for a manual and go from there I guess.

Thanks for the help!

 

I can't say if those "Engine Fixers" work. I don't think you have anything to loose, trying one. I wud only consider one of the fixers as a temp remedy.

 

I dont think 44K is enough to wear anything out unless the oil was never changed. Do some maintenance and see if it gets better? Make sure things under the valve cover aren't making the noise? Or rebuild it. I am just too cheap to tear down a 44K motor unless I am absolutely sure it is necessary.

 

An exhaust leak can sound like the motor is bad as well.

 

Nothing but new bearings and possibly crank fixes rod knock--- And I mean Nothing... Thick oil may help but temporary at best...

Generally if rod is loose enough to knock, the crank is going to need reground for undersize bearings..

Miracles in a can sometimes fix a leak or free sticking rings or lifters, but that's about it...

 

Just a comment on the 44,000 miles. When the odometer on a Maverick passes 100,000 miles it goes right back to zero and starts fresh, (0r a least they did up to 1973). Might it be possible you car has 144,00 miles? Even if it was parked for 20 years the previous owners sill had 19 years to rack up 144,000 miles.

MD

 

An oil pump seizing can sound like a rod knocking.
Either symptom in my car would cause me to do a motor swap or rebuild.
In your case, with 44K miles I would definitely do a rebuild.
I don't think there is ANY way that car has 144. It's too straight.

If you plan a motor swap, get the right Ford Six.
Ford inline sixes are divided into 2 categories:
1. The Thriftpower or Falcon six car motors came in these sizes: 144, 170, 200, and 250. From the 1960's to the 1980's
2. The Ford "Big Six" truck motors were available in 240 and 300 sizes, from the 60's til 96.

I think all 250's and 200's after 66 had 7 main bearings, low mount starters, and use the SBF Windsor transmission bell housing pattern and should be suitable for short block swaps.

They are not interchangeable. Big six motors will not fit in Mavericks without extensive modification to the car.
They are longer and taller. This sux because I see running, 90's models 300 sixes on Craigslist for under $300 all the time from Econolines and F150/F250's.

If you plan on rebuilding your motor I suggest you buy a Falcon Six Performance Handbook to go along with your shop manual.
http://www.falcon6handbook.com/

Check out your local machine shops and find out their reputations. Cheapest aint always best.
You may choose to only have block and crank and head service done and build it yourself from a bare block-up.
or
do some of it yourself and let masters handle the high level stuff.
What I do is tear it down to a short block and have the machine shop do all of the machining and reassemble it into a ready short block that I can finish with less advanced skills. All the precision work is done by the experts. I bolt on sheet metal and accessories and install it.
I have had 4 motors done this way for different cars and it costs me about $1000 each time.


The absolute worst thing about any year 1960 and up Thriftpower Six was the poor breathing, integrated "log" intake and cylinder head. The small logs have a round "log" under the carb.


The later 200's and 250's had "Big Log" heads that flowed much better, but still only had 1 bbl carbs available.
They have squared off "shoulders" towards the back.

On my son's 65 Falcon six we upgraded the cylinder head from the small log to the big log head and had the head completely rebuilt, upgraded the springs, replaced all the valves and got some mild porting done to improve flow.
The head work cost about $800 at the machine shop. It made a very noticeable difference.



You can get a 2 bbl to 1 bbl adapter like this for about $100:


The log heads are best if the 1 bbl carb mount is machined off and a 2 bbl carb mount is installed directly into the intake by a machine shop, unless you are an advanced level welder.

I really liked the novelty and "Wow" factor from a built six when we opened Alan's hood at an event.

 

Unless the guy who sold it to me (relative of a friend) outright lied, it has 44k miles, that's what the papers say too! I believe it does because everything is in great condition, it has just been sitting so long stuff has stopped working properly.

Thanks for the wealth of info @70GreenMonster ! Ill definitely be taking some of your advice, and yea I estimated the rebuild to be about 1000 total so that sounds right. What are your thoughts about getting some headers in there after I get everything working properly. Worth it or not?

I guess the first thing ill try is checking/replacing all the fluids, then seeing if its an exhaust leak or oil pump seizing like you guys suggested. But my guess is the oil was never properly taken care of and ill have to get new rods/bearings... oh well I figure even if I put 1500 - 2000 into the thing itll still be worth it!

 

Get headers even if there is nothing wrong with your motor!
Headers are a great return on investment as far as dollars to hp gain goes.
I'm guessing headers on a 250 should add 5-10 hp
Headers were next on the list for the Falcon when it was in a wreck and work on the project stopped.
Some things I don't have to guess about because I used Classicinlines dyno room as a guide:
Weber 2 bbl carb $340 (added about 5-7 hp)
Performance Distributors DUI distributor $440 (the real one with the hardened bronze gear, not the $199 knock-off from china with cheap cast iron gear) added 12-15 hp.