Have you made sure it's not transmission fluid? If it is it should be red and have a different smell. If it is, there are additives that will make those seals swell too. Another temporary fix though. Lee "THE MAV" Richart
I've started disconnecting all the hoses and wiring. What's the best place to mount the hoist chain to, carb plate, to the head mounting holes...I've never pulled an engine, so excuse the rookie questions. Is it better to pull trans and engine together? I am going to have trans rebuilt since engine is out. Using a Torin Big Red hoist with leveler. Thanks for the help. Once it's out... we'll see if I am brave enough to tackle the cowl repair.
After assuming it’s a rear main I immediately thought (assuming he has auto trans) “what if when he removed headers and exhaust he disconnected trans line or a pin hole is spraying over to drip down side of bellhousing, but then he stated his oil gauge flickered so probably not. I rerouted new hard trans lines on my build and I had to seriously hold them back when removing my old starter and installing new mini torque one, and one of the brass fittings started spraying when car started since they’re under pressure. It dropped down quickly right off bellhousing like yours but looks like you’re dug in now lol good luck I have some extra photos of my own cowl repair during my resto that’s a little different than the write ups and little cheaper and worked like a charm so let me know if you want them and or what it’ll take just HMU good luck.
take plenty of pics of the things you disconnect or unplug. I pull trans and engine at the same time if there is enough head room. put a rubber glove over the end of the trans tailshaft as to not make that mess.
It's oil for sure, not trans fluid. In the end, the engine and trans needed to come out. I wanted to put a new cam, heads, stall converter in eventually....more importantly I need to fix that cowl. I am just doing everything all out of order....Let's fix a floor pan, how about switching the front to disc brakes etc.. I am having fun and taking my time. I am glad that I was able to drive it for a few months and enjoy the new upgrades before I started on the floor pans and this leak started.
Friendly word of advice when it starts going back together.. be sure to use thread sealer on all crank to flywheel bolts. They run straight thru to behind rear main cap and can weep over time. I now use liberal stripes of hitemp loctite to seal and lock things up so no potential headaches. Course, everybody hates pulling anything I ever built apart later on. Including me!