Whats wrong with a stock pan? they have them on Ebay for under 50 bucks. If your car is lowered, those deep pans are just looking to get caught on something.
The 302 roller has a melling high volume oil pump. Summit said I needed at least a 6qt pan or risk running the pan dry.
I ran a factory 289 oil pan with Melling high volume pump for 35 years with no problem in my Falcon. I now have a Moroso 9 qt pan
I have a melling high volume pump, and a stock pan, I've never had any issues. But one thing you should worry about is the pump drive, if it's a high volume pump, with the stock drive rod, you'll twist it up. I have a ARP one.
This Miloden pan is like a factory pan, but with baffles. But it has only a 5qt capacity. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MIL-30720/ Also, found this about high volume pumps: http://www.badasscars.com/index.cfm.../category_id=13/home_id=3/mode=prod/prd91.htm If you do go with a deep pan, maybe you should weld in a skid plate...?
Fix your pan, and like me, be carefull where you drive. Don't pull too close to curbs, watch potholes, and go around speed bumps!
I have used high volumn oil pumps since the 70's.................talking about racing motors, not street motos. High volumn pumps put out more volumn, up to 20% more. The real issue here is that unless the motor is built with some wide clearances there is really not reason for a high volumn pump......a standard (but blueprinted) oil pump will work just fine. If the clearances in a motor are stock.....0.0015 to 0.002 and you have 20% more volumn you are actually cavitating the oil at the bearing surfaces. This can cause the oil to eat at the bearing material and in extreme cases the crank/rod journals. Remember high school physics, you can not compress a liquid. As for high pressure, I think the old rule of 10psi per 1000 rpm is more than enough for a street motor. Now if you are talking a race motor............my rule of thumb has always been to use 15psi per 1000 rpm. As with building a motor.....................it depends on what you are trying to accomplish...............the oiling system you choose is just as important as choosing the right cam/heads/pistons etc. Also, remember, when you compress any liquid under pressure, you create heat...........the more volumn/pressure..............the more heat. How many of you have a temperature gauge for your automatic transmission and one for the motor?????????????? One of the best investments you can make is to purchase a blueprinted oil pump.....................you can not believe some of the crap Melling is letting out their doors these days. www.precisionoilpumps.com IMHO
I priced it out and the stock pan with a stock oil pump and decided to just get the 7qt pan new with better clearance. The old pan is 9 3/4" deep and ground clearance was 5 3/4". The new pan is 7qt, 8" deep, 12" wide, with gates, scraper, and baffle. This should give the pan 7 1/2" ground clearance. I called and spoke to the guy who makes the pans. He said they have had good success with the pan fitting and wants to know if I have any problems. Seems like a straight forward guy. I might call him back and ask him to put the drain plug in the back side. (He is making a new batch of the pans this week.) The Pan is: Found it at: http://www.kevkoracing.com/ford.htm I will get you guys an update once I know how it fits. (Do I check the cam shaft and bearings or just replace them... I love digging into the engine. lol)
I am not sure how many of you guys are running aftermarket oil pans, but pay special attention to the pans with square kick outs as they may not fit because of the lower A arm attachment. Here is a picture of my Moroso #30926 pan.......................this is on a 351w motor, but the clearance between the pan and A arm is "Not Much" as you can see. The pan has a triangle front sump which is 11" wide and is 9.5" deep. It is an 8qt pan but most people only run 6 and at the most 7qt while racing. The motor does have a girdle and windage tray and has never run out of oil @7000 rpm using only 6qts. IMHO
That is my major concern with ground clearance since my car has the Shelby drop. I decided to work with this pan and the maker after looking at this thread: http://www.maverick.to/mmb/showthread.php?t=67293&highlight=notch+pan I am hoping the pan will have the proper clearance with the angels. If not, I hope to work with him to get a low profile pan that will fit our cars.
The pan looks good, I hope it fits! FYI: the shelby drop does not physically lower the car more than 1/4" to 1/2". It takes lowering springs, cut springs or other front end mods to lower the car as much as yours is. The Shelby Drop DOES move the upper control arm lower, causing the upper ball joint to be pulled more inward during upward suspension travel. This pulls the camber in, versus the almost outward movement on stock suspension. It should help with handling. Just some food for thought, keep us updated on the oil pan.
Pan is being shipped. I hope it fits like a glove next week. I'll let you guys know.. the wait is killing me.
This is painful - I am back in Indiana and the car is still in Florida. Oil pan came in and my dad says its a very nice pan and exactly 8 inches high. I ordered it painted black so its just a matter of putting it on - might have someone help me get it on the car. Asking to get a pic of the pan and of it installed. (Father is technology challenged - lets see how this goes) I hope it fits!
