if your brother in law can help you get occasional access to the body shop and you have a place where you can work on the car i would try doing the job in sections. one weekend you can take off the hood and decklid and strip those down(thick coat of aircraft stripper works good, a sander and wire wheel) and take those in to the shop to be primed. another weekend do the bodywork on your front and rear valences and then prime those, if you have to do front suspension work thats a good time to take off your fenders and prime those. maybe you can buy a gallon of primer and work something out with the shop so they can spray it if you do the prep work.
kenseth17 - Good write up thanks. I have a better knowledge of the different paints now. I see the different paints for sale but I didn't know the pro's and cons of each. Yeah, it looks like a grand in materials. If I had the 4,000 I would pay him to do it. I don't so I will have to see what I can come up with. ford84stepside- Yeah, I want to paint my car like you did. That would be fine for me at least for a few years. From yours and Ken's notes I think that I will probably go with the acrylic enamel. My car will never be a show car but I want it driveable and looking decent. bayareamav - In the past he would have probably worked out something like this. I think that he had to sell his shop building and land and he is working for another paint shop and not making as much money. I am taking that he was talking about doing it at his work. Thanks everyone, I am starting to catch on.
My t.a. buddys dad did bodywork for 30 years and the last paint job he did charged the guy 5 grand. He is an excelent painter and has a 13 year old red t.a. paintjob, 20 year old roadrunner paintjob, and a 16 year old cuda paintjob that looks brand new out of the factory, but these cars come out about 15 times a year.
I would seriously compare prices between a urethane and enamel. When you add in a hardener for the enamel (I wouldn't spray enamel without one, even though its an air dry system and doesn't require one.it would never really cure all the way through and stay soft forever without one) and the fact that there are a lot of affordable urethanes out there now, you may be able to find a urethane that is not all that more expensive then going with enamel. Even a cheap urethane should be better then enamel, be more durable,longer lasting, have better repairability, and require less upkeep, since it cures chemically Been awhile since I have bought and sprayed anything but a polyester basecoat-urethane clear, but I did buy a gallon of omni mtk to spray an old bonneville I use to have. The cost for a gallon of white urethane plus the required activator came to 90 bucks (didn't require reducer for the paint, mix ratio was 4 parts paint to 1 part activator). Now something like Omni (many other low cost lines out there as well, check into utech from a sikkens supplier too) is not the highest line of paint, white is a cheaper color to buy, and knowing the world of paint, cost has likely risen since then. But the omni held up pretty well on it. I kept the car for 6 years outside, and hardly ever washed the thing. Now I wouldn't always expect that kind of life with any single stage, and a color such as red may have begun fading out sooner and would not expect it to hold up like the white did, but may be something to consider if you'll be going with a solid color, and when pricing out your enamel. If your planning on a metallic or pearl color, well then I wouldn't want to spray them in anything other then a base clear anymore, preferably using a polyester based basecoat over an enamel one. Want the protection for both the color and metallic from uv, plus there just is no room for any real colorsanding and buffing after before you've cut into the metallic. And you usually get at least some imperfections in the application you will want to cut and buff out afterwards, even more so if sprayed at home, where the lighting and conditions normally isn't as good as some high dollar spray booth. I remember shooting some ss metallics back starting out, and they could be a real beotch to spray at times, maintaining both a wet application for good gloss and even metallic, and often required to jump back and forth between panels to even out the metallic. Although some metallics can be rough in a base as well, and occasionally need to mist coat to even a metallic, I would say the application is a heck of a lot simpler then a ss, since the clearcoat will provide the gloss, the ability to buff, and provide better protection as well. A lacquer thinner should clean out your guns, if its a decent one. Make sure it isn't paint thinner from a hardware store, not the same stuff. But that being said, my high dollar gun (iwata) I've been taking good care of, and always gets some reducer ran through it, and the air cap and nozzle removed and allowed to soak in urethane reducer.
What about this selection? Ok fair enough, from the place ford84stepside had gave me I found this kit. It is quite a bit more expensive but still the price doesn't seem to bad to me. http://www.paintforcars.com/kits_5star_sunshineyelw.html My car is yellow with Tan Interior so it may be better to go back with a yellow. I don't think that this yellow looks bad I was just hoping for more a Ford Yellow. I would prefer this color though. I like Midnight Blue more than any other color. http://www.paintforcars.com/kits_starfire_midntblue.html
my bro has his 73 mav in his school autobody as we speak and he's most likely going to have only 600 or so into it..think it was something like 250 for primer, masking, putty, and other misc materials...paint should be around 350 and clearcoat..guess he'll find out once hes near completely of the body/prep work :-D He's pretty much doing all the work himself it'll be grabber blue with the grabber side stripes, maverick man c/f grabber hood left unpainted,and vfn f/g front rear bumpers and front lower valance..blacked out chrome..billiet grille, bobcat tails with flat black tail panel
I took about 2 weeks off of work and did my 71 F00 about 10 years ago. I probably had about $600 in paint and bodywork costs. I bought an oil-less 5 hp 60 gal. compressor and a $100 Sears HVLP paint gun for the work. I built a tent with wood I had and a large tarp. I had never done any kind of auto body work before but read all the books I could find and bugged the paint company people crazy with questions. My body work was not the best but the paint job was pretty decent for my having done it. I got many compliments on it then and still do once in a while now. It still shines great but I need to polish it once about every 8 months. It was painted with a single stage paint. It can be done is what I am trying to say. If I ever get the money to work on my 72 Maverick I WILL be the one doing the paint and body. In all honesty, the actual painting was very easy. Just flow it on and keep it wet. I used Omni for everything and I had NO runs and only a little area where it wasn't wet enough inside the cab. You can do it Might not look like a $5000 paint job but you won't have $5000 in it either Clint
Hey, that's a great idea using a Tent for a paint booth! I just don't have a place to paint and I have plans to build a shop, but this damn roadblock called money has been a hold-up.
Best bang for the buck and getting you in a car that you'll feel OK riding around in--------Maaco or one of the franchise places with YOU doing all the prep. As has been stated, that's well over 80% of the final outcome. You'll spend easily $200-$300 on the even least expensive materials. Take all chrome and trim off. Wash the car with a purple scotch brite and some kind of kitchen cleaning powder like Comet or Ajax, etc. so you take all the shine of whatever's there. I wouldn't use anything more aggressive than 320 wet/dry for wet sanding the entire car. 80 grit is for demolition work. Clean it up and drive it to the paint shop. Acrylic enamel works just fine even in this day and time with all the new stuff out there. If we're talking an eventual showing at Barrett Jackson or Concourse d'Elegance then forget everything I've said.
Very nice! Thank you for the picture. Very nice car. I guess the second pic is before the paint? That pic looks like my car. On the new paint is that the original color? It looks to be much darker but I like it better.
No, I don't think that will happen. I would like to eventually like to paint and stripe like 7D2's car, but it would be nice to just have an ok paint job for now so I could just drive the car with it looking ok. Lot's to think about.
Most of the car is original paint, the side without the stripe has been repainted once and the fender was spray painted to match.
