If you do not plan to run A/C you can remove the valve. Non A/C cars do not have that valve. You might want to consider replacing both heater hoses, they look pretty bad. Also the bypass and radiator hoses if they are in the same condition.
Thanks for the answer! Will do! To clarify, When you say “both heater hoses” you mean both end hoses that connect to the valve correct? And if I remove the valve, I can replace with a single hose that is long enough? I apologize for my lack of knowledge but which hose is the bypass hose? Thanks!!
There are two separate heater hoses. One goes from the water pump to the heater box inside the passenger compartment, the other return line from the heater box back to the intake manifold. The hose from water pump to the box should be the one with the A/C shut off valve. You can remove the valve and replace it with a single hose. Don't forget to inspect the radiator and bypass hoses.
Today the last of my parts arrived! Gave installation a shot and ran into more problems.... Removing was surprisingly really simple. I was able to attach the adapter/spacer plate/ carb with no issues after a trip to the hardware store for longer mounting screws. My current problems: 1. I had to remove a component that was attached to the side of my block. It has a piece that looks like it leads to my transmission. I do not know how to reattach. 2. I cannot figure out how to attach the accelerator cable to the new carb. I see connections and tried various ports/combos but cannot solve it. I THINK this thing fits into my current cable and eventually the ball stud screws in? Can someone post a close up picture of what it should look like? 3. My guess is that big side port that is blocked off with the black rubber tip is where the line from the top of the valve cover will go? 4. Where do I connect the 2 rubber lines that come from the distributor area? One comes from the side area. The second hose comes from the back end. 5. Lastly. Where am I suppose to attach the fuel line to? Can I use the fuel filter from my rbs? THANK YOU!
The manual for the Holley was surprisingly not as helpful to me as I was hoping it would be. I also did not find detailed answers to help with the ford inline 6. Any links would be appreciated!
.. you may need to look for some experienced help with some of your project or just learn it along a longer path . I know a lot - about a little - but my attempts at explanations may need explanations ... 1. I had to remove a component that was attached to the side of my block. It has a piece that looks like it leads to my transmission. I do not know how to reattach. ... the Auto tranny 'kickdown' lever needed for proper operation and easily modified AFAIH. (my cars are stick only, never learned to drive an automatic ... ) 2. I cannot figure out how to attach the accelerator cable to the new carb. I see connections and tried various ports/combos but cannot solve it. I THINK this thing fits into my current cable and eventually the ball stud screws in? Can someone post a close up picture of what it should look like? ... may take some minor 'forming' or fabrication, aftermarket cable throttle kits (Mr Gasket @ $30) have usable parts . 3. My guess is that big side port that is blocked off with the black rubber tip is where the line from the top of the valve cover will go? .. Positive Crankcase Ventilation vacuum source from Holley 2300 if used. 4. Where do I connect the 2 rubber lines that come from the distributor area? One comes from the side area. The second hose comes from the back end. .. briefly, on the distributor - the vacuum line connected to the diaphragm perpendicular, is the ignition Vacuum Advance. The right angle vacuum line is an emissions specific ignition advance limiter - NOT NEEDED _ and can be eliminated unless required by law. ..the distributors' vacuum source can be from the intake manifold (original block splitter) or the 'ported vacuum' port/tube on most versions of the carburetor. 5. Lastly. Where am I suppose to attach the fuel line to? Can I use the fuel filter from my rbs? ... in the over VC position, my 2300 needed an extreme bent tubing adapted to fuel line. suggest - https://fordsix.com// - typical discussions and SEARCH available on all 'issues' mentioned .. have Fun
Thanks for the response! Definitely trying to learn myself, I just have no experience or knowledge of any of this. Thanks for the lead. I will create a similar post on those forums asking people to dumb things down for me.
I was able to set it up for the most part. I fired it up but now I am having the issues of some small faint sparks omitting from above my headers/carb fuel bowl when I press down on the gas. Any ideas what it might be? I connected the valve cover hose to the PCV outlet on the bottom side of the carb. I posted a picture of the outlet I capped off on my distributor and I connected the other hose to the timed spark vacuum on the Holley.
I don't understand what you are describing? There is some distance between your header flange and fuel bowl. The intake manifold is in between the two. Also you describe this as a spark. Is that a correct description? Is it coming out from your header flange? I would reconsider having all that rubber fuel line hose and plastic fuel filter. The fuel line and filter should be mostly metal from the fuel pump to the carburetor. You can get flared metal line from your local parts store to bend and cut as needed.
I will upload a video later today when I get home to show the sparks I am referring to. Thank you for the recommendation! I was unaware that the metal line by itself could be replaced. I will replace the rubber line with a new shorter metal line from the fuel pump to the carb with less rubber involved. Also the fuel filter.
Thanks again for the recommendations. I got the new steel line and ran it over the vc. I used a clear 5/16 fuel filter from mr gasket. Are those okay?(You can kindof see the setup in one of the pictures.). I noticed that the sparks are actually coming from what looks like between my headers and the block. Bought a new gasket from vintage inlines. And new header bolts from there too. I saw my headers were missing one on the bottom.... I tried a two different spare bolts but it didn’t seem to tighten. wonder if my headers were misaligned when I got my exhaust welded a few months ago. Planning to loosening everything and retighten. In the meantime I bought an auto trans kickdown cable to instalL On the brightside the car sounds REALLY good (aside from the slight headers leak...) thanks all!
Thank you for the recommendation Craig. Will this work? Reminds me of the old one that connected to the rbs carter carb but instead with two 5/16 hose outlets.
