Positive Camber/Pulling After LCA Replacement?

Discussion in 'Technical' started by MaverickPDX, May 31, 2019.

  1. MaverickPDX

    MaverickPDX Member

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    I'm currently rebuilding my '77 Maverick's front suspension. So far, I've replaced the shocks and both UCAs.

    Today, I was able to replace the driver's side LCA, but did not have time to replace the passenger side (I'm aware that both need to be replaced simultaneously). On the driver's side, there was a clattering sound that appears to have been eliminated and was probably the sound of a defective ball joint.

    But now I have a new problem.

    I took it for a spin and noticed that the steering was pulling strongly to the right. When I got out to take a look at the car, there was a severe amount of positive camber in the driver's side wheel. My first assumption was that the lug nuts weren't tight enough (I bet most of us have made that rookie mistake!), but they looked tight and, when I jacked it up and gave it a good tug (oh, I wish there was a better way to put that), there didn't seem to be too much play in the wheel. Nevertheless, when I tightened them even more, the camber straightened out a bit.

    Unfortunately, when I took it for a spin a second time, it still pulled strongly to the right. I also heard some interesting popping sounds that were also likely suspension related.

    What's going on?! I made sure to torque every LCA-connecting nut to the proper specs. I'm confuddled. What do y'all think?
     
  2. mojo

    mojo "Everett"- Senior Citizen Supporting Member

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    May have left a bolt/nut loose somewhere in suspension. Camber issue maybe ecentric not oriented correctly.
    I would replace the other LCA and take to alignment shop -- somewhere they align old cars.
     
  3. MaverickPDX

    MaverickPDX Member

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    Thanks! But now I have another question... shouldn't the car pull to the side with the positive camber? Why is it pulling to the opposite side? Could this be because my caster is also out of alignment? I'm not sure how any of that works.

    Just for clarification: caster is adjusted by tightening/loosening the two bolts that attach the strut to the LCA, and camber is adjusted by tightening/loosening the eccentric bolt that connects the LCA to the lower frame, is that right?

    It's also worth mentioning that the last mechanic who took a look at it was unable to align it because the steering components were too worn for the car to remain straight. I figure I'll try again once the other LCA and the tie rods are replaced.

    In the meantime, I'm hoping I can make the adjustments that at least keep the Mav driveable.
     
  4. Maverocket

    Maverocket Bob Williams

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    When you adjust camber the toe-in is affected.
     
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  5. dyent

    dyent Member

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  6. RMiller

    RMiller My name is Rick

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    There is no hard and fast rule that says both arms have to be replaced at the same time but it isn't a bad idea. If all you did was upper and lower arms and shocks it has to be the eccentric adjustment which would effect toe as Mavericket said.

    How did you set it when you installed the arm? Best bet is to mark the position so you can put it back where it was before disassembly. If it were me, I would start bringing the lower arm out by turning the eccentric, drive it then check it again. You can get it close that way and I imagine it would come around and start driving normal again.
     
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  7. mojo

    mojo "Everett"- Senior Citizen Supporting Member

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    After all is said and done --- If you have remaining suspension/steering parts install them. Do it once and be done!
    Anytime you make change in one aspect of align it will (most likely) affect another aspect. You also mention you had worn steering parts. So, you may need anything from tie-rods to idler arm.
    Take to alignment shop reduce your frustration and save your tires. JMO..
     
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  8. MaverickPDX

    MaverickPDX Member

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    Thank you all for your input. Unfortunately, I didn't mark anything or take any pictures while replacing the LCAs, so I reckon I'll just take it to an alignment shop.

    I loosened the eccentric, drove it around for a short while and didn't see any improvement in the steering.

    I also looked over the steering components. None of the tie rods noticeably moved when I gave them a tug with the car elevated, but one of the tires did fail the shake test, so I'm going to replace the tie rod ends on both sides and hope for the best. I bet that's why that mechanic was unable to align it. I also looked at the idler arm with the car on level surface. It did move a little bit when I pressed up against it but nothing felt loose. Guessing it's fine.

    Worth noting that there's a boot on one of the sides of the power cylinder that appears to be disintegrating.
     
  9. dyent

    dyent Member

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  10. YellowStangDuan

    YellowStangDuan Member

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    It’s probably pulling to the right due to the toe is probably severely off too because of the camber. Camber will affect toe, that’s why toe is the last thing done. It’s pulling because no matter what, the toe from both sides will try to center, it’s not possible for one tire to be 4” off, the car will center and both will be 2” off while driving straight. Look at the tire when the driver side is straight and see how close the camber is, and set it. Then check how the toe looks, but it’ll still need to be correctly aligned.
     
  11. bmcdaniel

    bmcdaniel Senile Member

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    Anytime you replace anything on the front suspension, except the stabilizer bar and shocks, you need to reset the alignment. My caster/camber gauge measures to 0.01 degree, you need to adjust to 0.1 degree. You can't eyeball that.
     
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