As posted above. This is a want more a need. If you are going to race, I say go with a locker/mini spool. On the street Trac-Loc $700 to $1000. It would be cool to says to others, I have a trac-lok rearend. It's all about the $$$. IMHO. Rick
I had always wondered why the power went to the right rear and you comment is like, d'uh, why didn't I think of that! Thanks. Now it all makes sense.
My 9 inch Trac-Loc actually came out of a 69 Ford van with a 6 cylinder engine. Back in my early stock car days, we used a lot of 4.11 gear sets and found this particular set in the van in a junkyard. The owner of the race car bought the center section, stripped it for the ring and pinion and was going to toss the Trac-Loc carrier into the metal dumpster. Johnny on the spot here, put it in my trunk and home it went with me.
while I would agree that it's a worthwhile advantage for many.. some types of LSD's can and do cause a lot more accidents for those who don't have the highest skill levels for driving in icy/snowy conditions. Much easier for the backend of a car(and especially a pickup truck) to come around on you when it has both wheels compression braking under sudden deceleration or spinning under too hard acceleration. Gets even worse around a corner. Just depends on the posi type and whether or not it's a 1 way or 2 way clutch mechanism being used. That's why you rarely see a 2 way clutch on a front wheel drive car as it would just cause too much loss in control as the car plowed through turns under sudden deceleration during loss of traction since 2 spinning wheels gives virtually zero lateral stability. Not good for the steering end of the vehicle at all or for any but the most experienced drivers. Torque steer would be unmanageable as well. Even many of the AWD cars do not have true limited slips on both axles with only one wheel receiving power in inclement weather. And some/many 4WD trucks will still spin one tire on each axle when in the mud. One wheel wonders are slower for acceleration.. but far better for novice drivers when the car gets out of shape in the slippery stuff. One wheel spinning and/or compression braking won't spin you into a ditch nearly as easily as older LSD's will. Just another one of those "pro's and con's" kinda' thing when it's all boiled right down. This is why traction controls have become so popular these days simply because there are inherent limitations of each design. Plus, it doesn't take much more than a written test and following some basic traffic laws while the DMV sits next to you on the road test.. to get a license these days and driving skills have little to do with it. Pretty sad really when you consider all those who have lost their lives in slippery or panic situations as a result of not being legally forced to learn how to manage a vehicle in panic or slippery conditions. Personally?.. I prefer a nice aggressive LSD rearend.. but I'm also the aggressive driver type who actually tries to slide my cars around on purpose much of the time too. But they can certainly be a white-knuckled bitch to handle at speeds on glare ice though. Another perspective here through a somewhat rhetorical question. When you're driving along the highway in transitional cold weather with an older LSD(just starting to get colder in the fall.. or even at the beginning of a snow storm).. and feel the rear traction go away as you start to slowly drift.. what's the first thing that most people will do? Nope.. it's not the usual "hit the brakes" as most will normally answer. The first thing you do when you sense a loss in traction is to lift off the gas completely. Very bad move with some types of LSD. Now compare what happens to the rear end of a vehicle with 2 way LSD.. vs an open rearend in that same scenario. The open remains much more composed and doesn't make matters worse by compression braking the vehicle into an even worse state than it already is at that moment. 2 way LSD's can be drivin with similar effect in the above scenario.. but neutral throttle is usually required with a confident "steer through the drift" attitude to do it. Of which most don't have the confidence or skillset to do in a panic situation when running at higher speed. Anyhow.. that's my dirty penny on the subject.
I can agree with that!! I was a passenger on a wet road when we came to an icy bridge. Driver let off on the gas when the wheels lost traction and round and round we went. Hit all four corners on the 18" high curb before we got stopped. Cruise control can do a similar thing when traction is lost. Think its a good idea to have both traction control and cruise control off in slippery conditions at highway speeds.
I had a CJ5 with a 360, 4 speed and a posi rear. In the winter, when I needed the posi the most, the rear end would not uncouple due to the snow under the tires. Sometimes the rear would continue to push the Jeep straight even though the wheels were turned all the way to the left or right
the spec sheet the previous owner gave me states there is a limited slip Auburn unit with 3.83 gears with Kevlar clutches and 33 spline axles.. only thing I can find online that these are used on trucks and the only rear end the 33 splines are used on are 9 1/2 inch diffs.. can I please get any input/info on what I have??
I'm not sure and I've forgotten much about those types of things.. but I would guess that's a truck rearend? Might want to call a gear mfgr to get more specifics if someone else doesn't chime in with the answer you're looking for. Sorry I couldn't help and good luck with it. That's one seriously over-killed rearend setup for such a light car though.. I do know that much. Maybe it was a nitrous car before?
previous owner had it setup for strip long ago.. has 302 v8 in it with TCI c4 trans.. don't know whats in the engine as I have not been able to really drive it yet
Like I said.. I dunno. But I would guess that the current motor/trans could never hurt that rear even it were bone stock and you sprayed it a bit. Apparently, you could run big-block power with slicks in its current config.
