Ice the intake between runs. Pull your belt off at the track right before you make a pass. Drop the sway bar for a better launch and weight reduction. Oh, and unless its a wideband, an air fuel gauge is just a pretty blinky light ornament. Dont waste the time or money hooking up a narrow band gauge. AC
Ha! My buddy had one on his 60's Rambler station wagon. We were convinced the turd was MUCH slower with that noise-maker in operation. Dunno of any actual numbers of gain/loss though. The fear of leaks alone (even on the new ones) would be enough to steer me thother way.
Rudy Bidlack invented his own electric cutouts a long time ago. Pretty neat. Dunno if it actually makes a difference, should with the motor he is running. I am planning on adding a sail to mine before the next Roundup. Then with the addition of an electric fan which will develop winds upwards of 125mph and a real long extension cord, I am thinking I can take a full second off my E.T. Yes, I have calculated the additional weight of mast, sail, BFF (big friggin fan) and will wind tunnel it to make sure I dont have any handling control issues at mach 1. Dan
LOL nice. They say you can see the ripple when you break mach speed. Hope it doesnt effect paint or bodywork. Also, dont forget to take a passenger that can push on the dash for that extra little bit of oomph. AC
Maverick73 I am running a 302 with about 360 horsepower, and the 2 1/4's work great for me. I would say, and this is just my opinion, that unless you are running upwards of 400 horsepower, that you would indeed lose torque if you went up to a 2 1/5 or 3" pipe. Again, I have no numbers to prove that, but I just think that you would lose power. Preston
I'm talking about at the flywheel, not the rear wheels. I haven't put this thing on a real live dyno, but according to the dyno2000, which a lot of folks say is pretty accurate, I am making 358 horsepower at 5000 RPM's and 378 lbs torque at 4500. I have my rev limiter set at just over 5 so I can let other people drive it, and not have to worry about rods letting go. It shows over 350 lbs torque from 3500-6000 RPM's. Like I said, I haven't put it on a real dyno as there are none for many-many-many miles around, but this program is supposed to be fairly accurate. It's not like I'm trying to mislead anyone here............Preston Mods aren't that extensive- 302 +40, Flattop aluminum pistons, Ported, polished, shaved heads, 1.94" intake/1.6" exhaust valves, Holley Street Dominator intake Manifold, Edelbrock 600 carb, long tube headers, .448/.471 cam, bearings +10, and about 10.5 to 1 according to a coupla people on this board who ran my numbers for me when I first built the engine. I have the timing entered in as 4 degree advance, but I know it is advanced more than that- but 4 seemed like an okay number to put in. Exhaust is basically straights, I have glasspacks, but can stick my whole arm through them- they had to weld the glasspack down to fit the 2 1/4" pipe. Exhaust dumps behind the rear wheels. That's about all I guess. Like I said, this is going by what the program says. Sorry if I astonished, astounded, shocked, or pissed anybody off.
350 hp na isnt impossible to get with a 302 n/a at the crank here is a link for all of the non-believers http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/116_0307_ford/ this engine makes 405hp at the crank with a stock bottom end and a stock cam... -beau
Hey Rick, I'm pretty sure it's possible. http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=10890&highlight=dyno+today
