JHodges, I swapped my C4 to a PG this past week. I used the JW UltraBell, I already had the JW "the Wheel" 157 tooth flexplate, and I also picked up the JW crank adapter p/n#80002-3. I had a new converer built by FTI, and had a new driveshaft made once everything was in. I also had to swap out my shifter gate to a gate for a PG. The new trans has a trans-brake, which necessitated "notching" a factory double hump style crossmember. I also had to drill one set of new slots based on the hole spacing on the PG mount. Later this week, I'll be dropping the factory mount and fabbing up a tubular mount...I just ran out of time to do that this weekend. It looks like one of the single hump crossmemers would work fine without notching if you don't need the clearance for exhaust. Header fitment with my Hedman's was super tight. Not sure on the Hooker's, but mine kind of angle towards the center of the car..which puts them both nearly touching the trans pan. My winter project is going to be the installation of the RC-107 MII kit I have in the corner, and I'll address the header fitment issue then. Performance wise, I didn't lose a thing with the swap. Myself, and others, had thought that my 60 foots would suffer because I only run a 3.89 gear, but they're the same. I held off on changing rear gears because I wanted to see how it would run with just swapping out the trans/converter. I was dialed 6.72 last weekend, and was dialed 6.69 last night. Last weekend 60's were 1.43, this weekend they were 1.42-1.43, mph was still 101-102. Swapping rear gears would probably result in better 60' and lower ET's...but I kind of like where it's at right now. Plus...it's not as hard on parts. I'm very pleased with the swap as a whole, and wish I'd have done it sooner. There's my for what it's worth...
I have the super comp pa and when I was run high 11s the high gears pack went about 400passes before I had to send it back to PA which wasn't too bad but when I started running low 10s it lasted about 150 passes, which is only a year and a half before I had to spend between $400 and $500 shipping it back to freshen it up. So the new maverick I am building to run in super street will have a power glide in it and the pa will stay in the comet and I will back it down to 11.80 and let my nephew run it in pro or sportsman.
I am planning to put a powerglide in my maverick. I think it would be the most consistent transmission to bracket race with. I would love to see any pictures that anyone may have of the rear transmission mount and crossmember modifications. I think I have everything else worked out for the swap. If Maxx or Olerodder has any pics they would like to post, it would be greatly appreciated.
Here are some pictures, sorry they aren't great. The one that was in the car was a mod'd six cylinder mount that had been cut in half and a flat plate welded in at the right angle. I actually bought one of Russ's AOD mounts and had him send it not welded, I did tack it up and set it on the car once, and it was very close to working, just needed a little TLC to make it work................but I never got the chance.
Thanks for the quick response olerodder, looks pretty straightforward. I assume that is a OEM style mount used on the trans with the mods to the crossmember. Thanks for the pics. What did you use for a driveshaft on this combo? BTW. Awesome car you have, I love it!
I used a Poly mount at the trans as the motor mounts are solid. Mike at Mike's Tranmission in Lancaster, CA told me to use a Poly mount at the trans (before it was also solid) to keep it stiff but not solid. Mike originally built the trans in the early 90's and it lasted over 10 years of hard abuse. When it came apart there were a number of issues that could have cost me some big $$$$$ if I hadn't taken it in when I did. The driveshaft was a 4" aluminum unit by "The Driveshaft Co". If you didn't already know, I sold the car and it is now in New Zealand.
Ordered my new powerglide and converter last week. I should have it this week. Getting the pieces for the car together little by little. Yea! Thanks for the pics and the help on this. I may have some more questions when I actually get to fitting everything in the car..
Hi Paul, What bellhousing are you going with? What about the crank adapter? Little things, but they add up. I'm probably going to be fabbing up a tubular crossmember when it gets closer to season opening here. I used one of the stock "double hump" crossmembers and I just had to elongate one of the slots to get it to bolt up to the stock PG mount. I also had to "notch" mine some where my transbrake solenoid is to clear. It worked fine last season, but I've added the RC-107 M2 kit now, so I had to raise the engine a touch for crossmember clearance, so I think just making a new mount will be the best thing. I actually think the single hump 6-cylinder crossmember would have cleared just fine as far as the t-brake solenoid goes. Good luck with everything...I love mine.
I am going with a JW ultra bell. My trans guy is setting it up with that housing and a custom converter. It will also have a bracket brake installed. I was told this week that the trans is ready, but JW is out of the ultra bells for the SB ford. They are supposed to have one shipped the first week of January. I am getting excited. What stall converter are you running in yours? I would be interested to know the specifics of your combination if you don't mind sharing.. Thanks
I just got done building a glide for next season and wanted to add that Performance Automatic sells an adapter ring for a Glide to SBF for $177. I was planning on going that route so I could use the Ultra bell on my C4.
Good deal. I also run the JW UltraBell, with their "The Wheel" flexplate. That bell weights a chunk! Some people don't like the JW because of the way it uses the pump bolts to mount...but I talked to several people who have used them for many years, and they had no issues. I had FTI build me a contverter for my combination, which is a 347 with right at 13:1 compression. They set it up to stall around 5800, I think I have a 3200 chip in for launch, but that changes during the season depending on how well the track is hooking. I run a Man O War block and AFR 185 heads. I was going to use the 205's, but AFR recommended the 185's to keep velocity up. I've talked to people who run the 205's and they don't really run any faster than I do...so it works for me. More cubes would probably change that...but until then, I'm fine with what I have. I also run a comp solid roller with I think .621 lift. I'd have to check the cam card for duration... I only run a 3.89 gear, and see no reason to change it at the moment. People had me convinced (I had myself convinced as well) that the PG was going to kill my 60 fts with that gear, but it only made a minor difference...a couple of hundreths at most. I was planning on changing the gear, but just wanted to see how it did with the ones that were in it first. Honestly, I just wanted to make an apples to apples comparison after changing them...but when it 60'd almost the same, I didn't see any reason to change! The car doesn't leave as hard now as it did before, but that's not necessarily an issue. I only run a 9" slick, and slowing the 60 down a touch really wasn't a bad thing. With the C-4, it left HARD...with the fronts 2-3' in the air...footbraking. Now, it still leaves hard...footbraking, or off transbrake, but the different gears in the PG have tamed it down some. With the C-4, I bounced the oil pan off the track more than once (wrinkles in oil pan to prove lol)! Now, that's not so much a worry. Car mph's about the same as well, and ET's are the same. I don't really turn it too high, I shift around 6200...and it runs consistent 6.5x-6.6x's in the heat of the summer, at 102-103mph. I could lower the gear, or turn it higher and get it quicker...but it's super consistent where it's at now. No reason to fix it if it ain't broke. Edit...60's are around 1.42-1.43 now...best before with the C-4 was a 1.39...
Thanks for all of the input guys. I am also going to run a 347 now, since I recently purchased one from another forum member. I have been debating the rear end gear selection. I think I have settled on the 4.1o /4.11 ratio, but I have been considering a 4.33 or a 4.56, because of running 1/8 mi. I am planning on running a 28 in tall tire, and the 4.10 should keep my RPMs to a manageable level if I ever put it on a quarter mile track. But I am planning on running 1/8 mile for the most part. I am glad to hear that the 60 ft times are still good with your combo because I was concerned with how the car would leave and 60 ft. using the small block and not having a really low first gear. Your car seems to do really good with the 3.89, which makes me favor the 4.10 decision even more vs. the lower ratios. Like you, I am looking for consistency more than just flat out speed. I am wanting a car that I can win rounds bracket racing in. And I don't want to kill the motor doing it. My trans builder is recommending a 5000 to 5500 stall speed I believe, which is exactly what you seem to be doing. I appreciate all of the assistance and advice, I'm sure I will have plenty more questions as I get involved with the install.
Went with the JW since PA discontinued the adapter. Cut the case and fitted yesterday, here's some pictures.
