Get die grinder with wire wheel and go over the rusted areas to knock the loose stuff off. Rinse the dust off, or wipe it down with acetone and a rag, and put Rust Bullit on. I have heard alot better things about Rust Bullit then POR15. I heard POR15 will crack after a few years. I put Rust Bullit on the bottom of the trunk of Terry's '77, and it goes on very well. Just don't get any on you, it will not wash off your skin no matter how hard you scrub, it has to wear off on it's own. The drawback is that Rust Bullit is silver. So you would have to sand it and paint it black after the Rust Bullit.
The Metal Ready stuff that they sell does a numer of things: METAL-READYTM provides the best adhesion for POR-15® on any surface, including aluminum and shiny polished metal surfaces. Our simple process gently etches metal, creating an ideal anchor pattern for coatings such as POR-15®, while simultaneously leaving a zinc phosphate coating to insure chemical bonding of paint and steel. Avoid other preps that may leave harmful residues which prevent proper adhesion. After thoroughly degreasing your work piece, apply environmentally safe METAL-READYTM to both neutralize any rust and etch any clean bare metal. This will allow better adhesion of POR-15® or any other paint. METAL-READYTM is not caustic, corrosive, toxic or flammable. I've had friends that have used all their products, never had any problems, some done over 5 years ago. One guy did his gas tank, looks like the day he did it.
I have applied POR-15 to the bottom of our 77' Maverick, and all I did was knock off the loose, flakey rust, blow off the dust with compressed air and brush the POR-15 on. I did take care to not apply it on any areas that had no rust or was otherwise coated with paint. Once it dried, I could'nt beat the POR-15 off the car with a hammer. I'm not done with the car yet, but I intend to spray paintable undercoating over the POR-15 and the areas were the POR-15 was not applied for a little extra protection against the tons of salt The PA Department of Transportation loves to dump on the roads every winter.
I just ordered a quart of Rust Bullet Automotive finish which is a grey/silver. I also ordered a quart of something, that Rust Bullet makes, called Black Shell. It is a totally black finish. Maybe Black Shell is new. I figured grey above and black below.
I just finished painting the bottom of my Maverick this summer. I scrapped the whole thing down (all undercoating, loose paint, rust flake) and wire brushed it as thoroughly as possible. Then I treated it with Metal-Prep as per the directions on the POR15 site, rinsed it all down with water, then air dried it with fans and heaters. Finally I applied 2 liberal coats within a few hours of one another, one half of the car at a time. I'm not sure that this is the best way to do it. I tried to combine the info from POR15's site recommendations, with what I thought was just common sense (such as re; how much to scrape and clean). Without a rotisserie, this was one of the worst jobs I've ever undertaken and hope to never have to repeat it again (without a rotisserie) as long as I live!!!! Have fun! John B
Is this true, especially on "frame" areas? I have come across some places where there is tubular frame and I cannot get inside it to paint it. I have worried about this. I don't want to prep and paint all under the car, and have it start to rust from inside the tubes. Luckily, we have no salt down here (unless you drive on the beach), and this car was always driven by an old lady who did not drive in the rain, or at night, unless she had to. Kept it in the garage all those years. I should have a pretty good base to start on. UnLuckily...she drove it into the sides of the garage a few times... That is why I have so many different colors, from swapping fenders and doors...
John, I agree with you. I don't look forward to laying on my back and painting above my head with a paint that may as well be Henna Tattoo ink. I already have spots up and down my arms, and on my face, from painting the floor. That, and I HATE working with my arms above my head for long periods of time. I have seriously thought about painting a tribal arm-band tattoo out of POR-15...I think it would look really good for about 6 weeks
Scott, I was refering to the floor boards. Rain gets into the cowl area and just sits, eventualy it begins to leak and the floors get wet under the carpet unnoticed. Have you ever stuck your head wayyy under the dash and looked up using a flash light? (towards the corners)
I opened a sandblast shop 1 year ago,(Midwest Surface Prep )-(.com ) & became a Por 15 about six months ago. We had many customers request to have parts be blasted lightly or partly because they were going to paint por 15 the rest. At first this seemed silly. However I spoke to a por 15 distributor at a swap meet and he told me that a sandblasted surface that had light flash rust was the toughest paint to metal bond you could get. Think about it, blasting-clean surface profile,flash rust-chemical bond. Since then we blast white metal clean, rinse with water, then spray on por 15, wait two to six hours, then spray on chassis coat or some other top coat. We do this to one or two frames or bodies ( not outer shells ) a week. Whatever paint you use always consider blasting first. I am not selling my service, I am recomending the best process for the best results. Before we carried por 15 I was helping a friend fix up his truck, we had his fender wells out to adjust some issues and I told him I was going to blast them real quick, he said no we didnt have time he needed to drive the truck home that night. Well I took them into the blast booth, blasted them in about ten minutes then blew them off, grabbed some Krylon semi-gloss rattle and sprayed them. well 15 minutes later they were dry. Now, even I was amazed at how well the paint held up when we reinstalled the fender wells.
Blugene, I have never had that problem. But then, I don't leave the car out in the rain. Midwest...The guy that sells me the POR-15 also owns a hot rod restoration shop. He said he does the same thing...sand to metal, then wet it, wait a day, then por 15 over the surface rust. Do you sand the gloss off the por15 before you paint topcoat over it? I like how the por 15 dries to a smooth, shiny, powder-coated look, and I have never painted over it. there is a small rust spot on the bed of my truck that I sanded to metal, dabbed on por-15 and have driven around for 6-8 months (sort of a test to see how it responds to sunlight and how well it keeps rust under control). So far, it has ligtned in color a little, but still looks black and shiny, and no rust.
Midwest...The guy that sells me the POR-15 also owns a hot rod restoration shop. He said he does the same thing...sand to metal, then wet it, wait a day, then por 15 over the surface rust. Do you sand the gloss off the por15 before you paint topcoat over it? I like how the por 15 dries to a smooth, shiny, powder-coated look, and I have never painted over it. there is a small rust spot on the bed of my truck that I sanded to metal, dabbed on por-15 and have driven around for 6-8 months (sort of a test to see how it responds to sunlight and how well it keeps rust under control). So far, it has ligtned in color a little, but still looks black and shiny, and no rust.Scooper Yes I would always recommend scuffing or in the case of POR-15 lightly sanding it first before top coating. We handle and sell a tie-coat primer or self etching primer. However light sanding will achieve the same results. If I'm using a POR-15 topcoat ie chassis coat or black coat, as long as it is applied within 24hrs. no other surface preparation is needed.
I like the product so well, that I'm in the process of stripping down one of my 73's to the shell only. Then putting on a rotisserie, blasting off all paint and coatings then shooting POR-15 underneath, inside and using wire swabs soaked with POR-15 and coat the inside of frame rails. Am also experimenting with coating the cowl vents with POR-15 by going in underneath the dash. We also work with a local powdercoat shop that sends their customers to us to blast items before coating, plus our local Line-x shop sends industrial parts to us to be blasted, both shops guarantee these coatings longer if blasted first. So we have blasted powdercoat, Line-x, undercoating,and por 15 off different parts. All of these are tough to blast off. The por15 or products similar to it have the best bond. Mil thickness is important, so lay it down heavy or multiple coats. As with anything there are some tricks to it. I enjoy helping anyone anytime. God knows I'm going to need help getting that puppy back together.
rattle can paint should never be used on a car.... it is not a permanent paint, and if the paint under it is not prepped.... ie sanded, the rattle can paints wont stick for very long
