Quest for 13's for $1300

Discussion in 'Drag Racing' started by Gray_ghost, Oct 5, 2020.

  1. Gray_ghost

    Gray_ghost Member

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    Hello i am almost done with this project but thought id share. I am a member on another forum where the members try to buy and modify any car to run 13 second quarter mile or faster for 1300 dollars maximum. I have undertook the challenge and bought a 1970 maverick from a friends yard for $250. He explained it had sat for 20 plus years... i told him i was going to get it running and stopping and take it home. He replied with a laugh. The next day me and a friend went out got it running which was not hard seeing it had never seen ethanol fuel. The brakes were non existent but got rears sorta working and we were off to the house. This 70 is a 200ci c4 8" rear end car with a/c. Floors were cut out and patched back in with a 55 chevy roof that was free to me. The engine had a burnt valve so it came out for a rebuild. The plan was to do a draw through turbo setup go fast as possible till she died in hope of 13 for 1300. So i got a hy35 holset made a up pipe and bolted copressor outlet on where the Carb would normally live. Forward of the turbo is a 1.3 throttle plate motorcraft 2bbl with boost reference power valve. Anyways the engine snowballed into full budget rebuild....new crank/ pistons .20 bearings and some head work. I opted for the late fox mustang valves cause intake was larger. I cut valve spring seats down to fit ls1 valve springs / seals and retainers but used ford locks. What Cam you ask? Well we called up howards and ask for the biggest offered for the 200. The specs were well...big so we went with the the smallest which is still 500ish lift and a buch of duration on a 109 lsa. Plan is to rev to 6500. The c4 has a transgo shift kit otherwise is stock. I needed timing retard for boost so the stock distributor went into trash. I am running a very old version of megajolt to handle ignition with a dodge caravan coil pack and ford edis module. This works by using a 36-1 trigger wheel and ford escort crank sensor on a mustang 1 row damper. We got this monster up and running tonight!! Gonna break engine in then lay turbo back on hopefully for a glory pass on around 15psi of boost this month before my local drag strip closes for the year. All my ignition stuff is ran by a set of 40 amp relays and small fuse boxs. My ignition works and has power when key is on but not while cranking. I am getting power for relays from acc post under dash. Where can i get 12+ while cranking? I will post pictures of this for you guys soon! Thanks! 20200411_182443.jpg
     
  2. mojo

    mojo "Everett"- Senior Citizen Supporting Member

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    Welcome to the forum from northeast Illinois! :Welcome:
    Very interesting project -- will be following!
     
  3. RMiller

    RMiller My name is Rick Supporting Member

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    Should be two small posts on the starter relay, one to engage it and the other will send twelve volts out while cranking.
     
  4. Gray_ghost

    Gray_ghost Member

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    Wonder if i can find the wire under dash that goes to that post. And if i use both wires to power my relays the acc post in fuse box for acc power and that one to get power while cranking. I need power to relays in all key positions but off. It powers my ignition. Hummm. Thanks for the reply.
     
  5. RMiller

    RMiller My name is Rick Supporting Member

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    That wire would run from the post to the coil so it would be in the engine bay.
     
  6. RMiller

    RMiller My name is Rick Supporting Member

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  7. Krazy Comet

    Krazy Comet Tom

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    To elaborate a bit more, when energized the four post Ford solenoids have 12v on post closest to battery cable(brown wire I believe). Connects back to coil so full battery battery voltage is supplied while cranking. Once started, connection drops out and coil then supplied by resistance wire in harness. At that point, post has coil supply voltage. If you're not using the original coil feed, the resistance wire can supply plenty of current to operate a relay. I trigger a 30A that operates Ign, lights, etc.
     
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  8. Gray_ghost

    Gray_ghost Member

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    The small 3 pin plug coming out of the firewall on drivers side had a red wire with green trace. This is the wire i used so now she starts with the key and dies by the key whoo. Now i gotta find what wire goes from the alt to the alt light in the dash. Im using a 65 amp Hitachi alternator with built in regulator. I had it leftovers from a z car i used to have so free and no money out of budget. Simple alt has charge cable to batt side of solenoid and a sense wire to switch 12v and a wire to dummy light in dash. I need to find wire for dummy light under hood. Any thoughts? I tested around and looked at original wiring from old regulator even looked At wiring diagram to no avail. Also has anyone ever jetted up a 1bbl? With the big cam this thing will not idle anything under 1k to 1200 and is lean. We ran engine in a 2k for 20-30 mins to break in cam and bores and it did not like taking throttle and exhaust pipe was like new when done clean as if it never ran. Id like to drive it for a week on the 1bbl to make sure trans and engine are broke in good before laying the 2bbl and boost on it.
     
  9. Krazy Comet

    Krazy Comet Tom

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    Wire back to alt light is lt green with red stripe. For use with mechanical regulator there is a 15 ohm shunt resistance wire in harness. With the 15 ohm in place, bulb probably won't light using a internal reg alt. Later models with electronic and/or internal regulator used a 500 ohm.
     
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  10. Gray_ghost

    Gray_ghost Member

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    Well got alt hooked up and working which is good even got the light working if engine is off but now that alt is working the ignition is somehow powered with the key off and continues to run lol.
     
  11. CA189HJN

    CA189HJN Robert Couse-Baker Supporting Member

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    Electronic ignition run-on can be fixed with an isolation diode. Attached is a portion of the "PERTRONIX 2001 IGNITION POWER RELAY KIT" instruction manual, which shows how this works.
     

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  12. Gray_ghost

    Gray_ghost Member

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    Well i stripped the threads on the one bbl carb where the jet goes while changing jets....so running the fresh setup a bit is out the window and im on to the turbo 2 bbl setup. It started right up first try and ran for about 15 seconds very rough. I keyed off then tried again and got a lean pop from the intake that then traveled up through my turbo and blew my carb off with a very hard bang! The carb flew over to the driver side upside down pouring fuel from the bowel out of the vents onto the fire. We quickly put it out with a fire extinguisher and only melted the crank trigger wires a little. After that i could not get it to idle at all. Come to find the base gasket blown out im guessing from the explosion. So i ordered some new ones and gonna make a spring loaded plate under the carb to keep that from happening ever again! Kinda like a pop off valve or blower blast window.
     

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  13. Gray_ghost

    Gray_ghost Member

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    The flat face under the carb is where i plan to put my anti explosion device. Look at pic below. THOUGHTS??
     

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  14. Mavman72

    Mavman72 Gone backwards but lookin' forward

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    Is that area big enough to put a large enough blast window on to handle a future lean pop? Might want to put a lip on the back of that carb/manifold pipe too, so it doesn't blow off the hose so easily...
     

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