Quest for 13's for $1300

Discussion in 'Drag Racing' started by Gray_ghost, Oct 5, 2020.

  1. Gray_ghost

    Gray_ghost Member

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    Well ran for 4 heat cycles today. Still rough starting but runs and idles. I fixed my run on with key off with a small diode in the wire going to the charge lamp. Anyhow i installed my lc-2 wideband too and afr was 12.3-12.5 at 1k idle and a scrooge mcduck rich 11.2 if i maintained a 2-3k rpm state. So my main jet is a little large but idle jets and accelerator squirt is not that far off. The transition from idle to main jet is rough but may be to main jet be too large. Think its 56 jets so may go to 54's see how that goes. Engine revs pretty good 6500 rpm is effortless. My timing is off some which im gonna recheck soon i had to put 29 degrees under 3k to get it to run well but the cam is large. Moving in the right direction just taking time with only one day a week i can dedicate to it.
     
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  2. Gray_ghost

    Gray_ghost Member

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    Still getting popping out carb but only while cranking my brother noticed i some how skipped the first row on timing table when we added timing ‍ so i gotta flash that change in and i think ill be good. Gonna double check timing and have another go also cutting carb adapter on a diagonal to reduce volume and fuel puddling in bottom hopefully. Wish me luck. Soon will be time for boost testing!!
     
  3. Gray_ghost

    Gray_ghost Member

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    After getting coughing under control am finally gonna hook up the power valve which is .2" vac and is boost referenced. Starting to shape up guys.
     
  4. Gray_ghost

    Gray_ghost Member

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    I have checked timing on engine and its at tdc and my trigger wheel is on center of the 6th tooth back from the missing tooth. Still get coughs from carb while cranking the timing required to run gives me pause and thoughts of something being wrong. I have (currently) 28 degrees fixed up to 105 kpa. Even during cranking and its seems to need more. I cant check with timing light for mine will not deal with the edis. So not sure where it really is....but it idles at 900 now at about 11-12 in of vacuum revs and makes 4-5 psi which is gate pressure on a free rev about 4500 to 6k. Now that powervalve is hooked up its lean and i need a much larger main jet. With it idling now with idle screws all the way out rich as i can get it was around a 16 afr. I thought the poweralve was not working if i had it unhooked from a vac source but alas i was wrong. After ordering multiple smaller jets i just decided to try and drill a set to try and get in a safe range again. Will post again tomorrow.
     
  5. Gray_ghost

    Gray_ghost Member

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    Ok boys!! She running on 28 degrees idles good down to 600 rpm but still has some issues. It is leaking oil from compressor seal which is causing oil to be burned and it smoking alot. Also the # 1 plug is clean all the other 5 are black and crusty with oil. I am getting fire to the plug but not sure if its firing. The other option is valve seal on #1 is leaking. Ended up with 79 jets in primary's and afr is smack on at idle after fiddling with air bleeds a few turns. Anyone know if i can machine a hx35 for a encapsulated carbon seal? Guess im gonna find out soon if its not the valve seal but i think its the turbo. The vw guys seem to think if you restrict the oil to a holset it will work with draw through so i used a .60 restrictor on this from day one guess thats not working.
     
  6. Gray_ghost

    Gray_ghost Member

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    Also cam is too big for stock torque converter as soon as i put it in gear bam! Dies chirping tires. I tried high idle like 1k and it still dies going into gear all the way down to about 500 which still died immediately when i hit reverse. Who has a cheap stall converter? This is a stock 70 maverick c4 with starter ring on converter. Would like a 3000 stall if possible. Thinking of using pinto converter and a custom drilled flex plate to make it happen for cheap. And ill have to bush up the pilot too but may be an option.
     

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