Not sure if anyone noticed yet, but they now offer a kit for mod motor and coyote motor http://rcmotorsportsinc.com/rc-107-mod-3/ I first thought it was an entirely different kit, but just seems to essentially be same kit different motor mounts..
When you order the front crossmember, they ask you what engine you are putting in. Then they either provide you with the motor mounts, or for a small fee, they will weld them in for you. I got mine already welded and ready to accept a 5.0.
Thats such a good price when i think about how much it's cost me to buy it all separately. Is it all really good quality components?
All of us who have used them are VERY happy with the setup. I actually have the 106 kit, which is exactly the same except regular old shocks and springs, no coilovers. Fairly easy to install, but definitely buy the kit as a whole. I bought the crossmember and some other parts from a buddy for half price. Then ended up having to buy the rest of the parts from R&C, and after it was all said and done, I ended up paying about what the entire kit would have cost if I bought it all at one time. I went with the 2" drop spindles, and power rack and pinion, and have been very pleased. Front and side views of final product (sorry for blurry front view) Here is how much freed up space I have between engine and fender. I have no regrets whatsoever...Other than I wish I had purchased the entire kit at once, and not in small batches.
That probably just means that I'm going to have to get another comet or maverick in the future just as an excuse to try it
I just told them what motor I was installing and the motor mount stands came installed on the RC-107 kit crossmember...
Even though I went a different route, the R & C kit seems like the best way to go as it has already been engineered to fit the Maverick/Comet chassis
..still thinking about this kit But with the design flaws of an M2 ,I'm still leaning towards an AME front clip with C6 suspension.. The main issue revolves around the control arms not being big enough.. But I'm just wondering how much of an issue in the real world it really is versus how much some people make it out to be over at protouring.com
When you say that the "control arms are not big enough" are you talking about thickness of material? They really can't get any longer or you would be increasing your front track width
No not thickness, just physically not wide enough..more specificly the lower arm Im going off memory so its probably not the whole issue but In A nutshell roll center moves, more so when braking and accelerating...cant properly handle load.. Which makes me think this arm if anyone has considered it would worsen the problem further http://www.fulltiltstreetrods.com/ford_into_ford.htm
Clipping from Bryce I do not like the MII because of the really low roll center and the large RC migration. Camber gain and bumpsteer and not ideal either. Clipping from David Pozzi The roll center moves laterally a lot, it moves towards the loaded tire under roll. The roll center is at ground level, goes below ground level under braking, there is only .3 deg neg camber gain per inch of bump, there is .8 deg camber loss relative to the ground at 2 deg pure roll, with no dive. The A arms are so short they really hurt the geometry!!! The usual move to the upper A arm inner pivots does not help much. Ontop of what both those quotes mentioned, it doesn't seem like the M2 offers much suspension travel with those coilovers..
I can not see where the M2 could possible be worse than the stock Ford suspension - I remember when I first got my car, both the upper and lower control arms were all pointed downward kind of making me wonder how the unequal control arm system was going to accomplish camber gains correctly at all - I wondered "Who the hell designed this?" - I've built circle track stock cars for years running on pavement and used some of the computer designs where the perfect set up was unobtainable considering that I was working with a stock frame and stock suspension components - some of my roll center numbers were scary too but, if I went strictly by those results, I would have never had the car out on the track - I changed things often by what the car was doing and stood 44 times in victory lane - I did use the Full Tilt offset lower A-frames on my car as my rack would not have fit without using them and still be able to mount the Cleveland - if you were to bend that offset rear tube around towards the front, you would simply create a stock mounting M2 lower control arm but then needing a front mounted locating strut rod like stock. I just lived by what my tire pyrometer told me
I'll be pulling my front end apart for powdercoating soon, I will check all the components for wear and or stress cracks.
While those opinions are for a track car, the RCM kit is made for a street cat where it really shines. If your primary need is a track car, you should prolly look into having a NASCAR shop build you a framed body...
