Those of you that have purchased this kit and installed it where did you purchase it from ? Or if anybody has a kit laying around that they decided not to use do you want to sell it. Time for some up grades on the 72. Any pointers on the installation would be appreciated also
i purchased mine directly. probably the best way. very helpful people cut your shock towers out sparsely. keep most of the side panels intact... measure twice, then measure again, when it comes to alignment of the parts. i used a razor blade for all my marks... etched the steel. clamps as well when welding.
"i purchased mine directly. probably the best way. very helpful people." I drove over and picked up my kit . I have the manual rack... if you saw my autocross vid. it was with the manual rack n pinion...
hardest part is the first cut, after that it's all down hill... would be a good time to weld up any unused bolt holes and trim any unused brackets off, clean and paint under the hood. after mounting the crossmember I/we cut out the strut rod brace, some do some don't. to me looks cleaner with no ill effects. tell them what motor you are planning on running and they will install the motor mount stands for that engine, at the time mine was for a 302/347. I chose for my steering shaft to be one piece. doing it that way it was a challenge to find a set of headers to fit without hitting it...(the headers) that's another story...LOL once the crossmember is in, just take the rest of the parts out of the boxes and bolt them on... I assembled mine completely and then removed it all and painted/powder coated the parts and reassembled... you have choices when ordering the kit. I upgraded the brakes and got the slotted rotors. OH...it comes with the alignment specs, which on my kit was the stock Mav. specs... tools: ...sawzall...air chisel...plasma cutter...grinding wheel...needle scalier and welder..."a little lipstick and mascara" (Mike Holmes). my two post lift was nice but it can be done on jack stands. If for any reason I had to get another Mav. I would do it again... it took longer to write this, proof read it and post it than it took to assemble the front end... ......
Probably a dumb question but with no shock tower braces have you noticed any movement with the top of the fenders, did you have to modify a set of headers for fitment with the 347. I imagine this also took some weight off, any idea what the difference is just wondering if I am going to need wheelie bars. LOL
347 had nothing to do with my header search. as stated, I wanted my steering shaft straight that was the header issue. if I had ran an offset knuckle on my steering shaft any header for a 302/347 would have worked...
Okay I see, I will want to upgrade the size of header tubes to let it breathe a little better while I am at it but that's another story. Just got to save up a little money (well a lot of money). Anybody want to buy a 64 2 door Falcon wagon. LOL
Thinking mine said to get headers,oil pan, etc...for a 79 and up Fox Body. That's the headers I got for mine with the 347, and now with the 351 based block, and they fit just fine.
Great idea but maybe I wouldnt see a 45th then. Actually she would let me do it but I am just reluctant to do it with 2 other cars that need improvements and her Shelby that I have promised to upgrade some.
IMO, most primary pipe sizes and ESPECIALLY collector sizes are already oversized for these little motors to begin with. Moving to the higher stroke/compression ratio helps improve that airflow equation. Anything beyond 1-5/8" primary/3" collector sizing will quickly trade torque for horsepower at peak rpm. Even truer when header length is greatly restricted by packaging concerns. Bigger pipes are great for race cars with really short gears/high stall speeds.. but not so much for any street car that lives most of its life under those peaks. Mike. Are these long tubes or mid-length pipes? About the best thing you guys could do for any of these headers is to install a reverse cone collector. Flow from a 2-1/4" - 2-1/2" collector choke size will still be more than sufficient to not kill peak power.. but the depression created in front of it will clean up the tuneup and the torque will rise at its peak and below. Throttle response will become crisper due to less intake reversion and the motor will feel slightly larger down low.
How did you get that convoluted idea out of what I said above? PS. be sure to use a 1-7/8" primary with 3-1/2" collector on that humongous LS motor.. they really seem to like that. Drastically helps reduce pumping losses and improve mileage.
IMO...all I see is...more of your opinion...that wasn't asked for...it's not even like...telling them how to build a watch when they ask what time is it?...I didn't ask....