removing oil pan

Discussion in 'General Maverick/Comet' started by wolfheads, Mar 30, 2014.

  1. wolfheads

    wolfheads MadMav

    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2007
    Messages:
    349
    Likes Received:
    11
    Trophy Points:
    76
    Location:
    Florida
    Vehicle:
    73 Maverick / 2000 Harley Low Rider
    I'm just throwing this into the mix for those needing help removing the oil pan. I have a 1973 Maverick 302 that I am installing a HV oil pump on. I found out that raising the engine is not required in order to remove the oil pan. I found that by moving the starter over to get to the pan bolts is required. Remove the starter bolt closest to the pan and loosen the other starter bolt just enough to move the starter over to get a socket on the 2 pan bolts. The stabilizer bar will need to be unfastened at one end and the insulators removed from the frame in order to swing the stabilizer bar out of the way. The pan then slides forward and out. I was able to remove the oil pump and screen while the pan was dropped down in the front. I'm not sure if the pan will come out without removing the oil pump and screen first. Didn't go that route.
     
  2. Krazy Comet

    Krazy Comet Tom

    Joined:
    Sep 13, 2012
    Messages:
    7,649
    Likes Received:
    2,394
    Trophy Points:
    531
    Garage:
    1
    Location:
    Chesapeake VA
    Vehicle:
    1972 Comet GT clone 306 . 1969 Fairlane Cobra 428CJ 1988 T-Bird awaiting 331 ..
    So why did you need a HV pump??? With stock bearing clearances they sap HP and mostly remain in bypass mode till the engine oil is fully warmed...
     
  3. MaverickDan

    MaverickDan I wanna go fast!!!

    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2007
    Messages:
    808
    Likes Received:
    45
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Garage:
    1
    Location:
    Midlothian, VA.
    Vehicle:
    73 Maverick 4dr
    You can get it out with the pump on. I get mine off mostly the same way, I loosen the sway bar from the frame but leave the links connected but remove the belly bar. I was also able to get mine out with the starter in place.
     
  4. wolfheads

    wolfheads MadMav

    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2007
    Messages:
    349
    Likes Received:
    11
    Trophy Points:
    76
    Location:
    Florida
    Vehicle:
    73 Maverick / 2000 Harley Low Rider
    HV oil pump.

    I figured I'd go ahead and install an HV oil pump since the cost was just a few bucks more. Everyone I talked to said It wouldn't hurt to have the HV pump. As far as the moving of the starter, I couldn't get the socket on the bolts without moving the starter over a fraction. Really not that big of a deal. just a little easier for me. I found out that the valve stem guide seals were gone as the remains of them were in the bottom of the oil pan, In pieces and hard as plastic. I knew I needed them replaced because of the big cloud of smoke I got when first cranking it up. I just didn't realize how gone they were until removing the pan. Kinda had the screen clogged up too. I'll be working on that today. Gotta locate or devise a valve spring compressor first.
     
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2014
  5. MaverickDan

    MaverickDan I wanna go fast!!!

    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2007
    Messages:
    808
    Likes Received:
    45
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Garage:
    1
    Location:
    Midlothian, VA.
    Vehicle:
    73 Maverick 4dr
    I have a later model starter could be why I didn't have to move mine.
     
  6. mercgt73

    mercgt73 Member

    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2003
    Messages:
    3,828
    Likes Received:
    352
    Trophy Points:
    223
    Location:
    Eastern Shore, Maryland
    Vehicle:
    1973 Comet GT (clone), 1974 Mustang II, 1980 Bobcat Wagon
  7. Crazy Larry

    Crazy Larry Member

    Joined:
    Jul 16, 2005
    Messages:
    3,557
    Likes Received:
    603
    Trophy Points:
    287
    Location:
    Wichita, Kansas
    Vehicle:
    '73 Maverick 2-door, 302, manual trans
    Not only is a HV oil pump totally unnecessary in a 302, but will suck a stock oil pan sump dry.

    Really not a good idea.
     
  8. 71gold

    71gold Frank Cooper Supporting Member

    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2002
    Messages:
    26,520
    Likes Received:
    2,881
    Trophy Points:
    978
    Garage:
    1
    Location:
    MACON,GA.
    Vehicle:
    '73 Grabber
    all my engines had stock style oil pumps...250...302...306...347...396 and LSX...:yup:
    my understanding, only full race engines with their bearing clearances need HV pumps.
     
  9. rotorr22

    rotorr22 Member

    Joined:
    Jun 30, 2008
    Messages:
    1,302
    Likes Received:
    259
    Trophy Points:
    211
    Location:
    Columbiana, Ohio
    Vehicle:
    2018 F150 XLT/5.0, 2014 Focus 5 spd manual,1974 Maverick Grabber, 1986 Thunderbird Elan 5.0/AOD
    +1. Spend your money elsewhere.
     
  10. homemadetools

    homemadetools Member

    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2015
    Messages:
    2
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    3
    Vehicle:
    Jeep Wrangler
    Hey guys - homemadetools.net founder here. Thanks for the link. We have a new ebook out: How to Make a Belt Sander. 100% free of course. Click the graphic below to check it out:

    [​IMG]
     
  11. Hotrock

    Hotrock Rick, an MCCI Member Supporting Member

    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2012
    Messages:
    1,467
    Likes Received:
    713
    Trophy Points:
    313
    Garage:
    1
    Location:
    Munroe Falls, Ohio
    Vehicle:
    1972 Mercury Comet, 1997 Mustang Cobra, 2019 Ford Edge ST
    One more point about HV pumps. I used to run an HV pump in my Comet's stock bearing clearance 351W until it began twisting the OEM pump rods. I had to go to a heavy duty rod and eventually went back to a stock pump. I've been running with a stock pump in my now 302 ever since.
     
  12. CaptainComet

    CaptainComet Large Member

    Joined:
    Mar 18, 2007
    Messages:
    4,991
    Likes Received:
    436
    Trophy Points:
    413
    Location:
    Clearwater, FL
    Vehicle:
    72 Comet
    As a side note, switch the stock oil pickup to a Mellings with a full screen. The stock pickup has a bypass feature that allows little chunks (like old dried up valve seals) to get in and jam the pump. Twice. Not fun.
     
  13. mojo

    mojo "Everett"- Senior Citizen Supporting Member

    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2009
    Messages:
    5,268
    Likes Received:
    833
    Trophy Points:
    513
    Garage:
    1
    Location:
    Chicago
    Vehicle:
    73 Comet GT-302 4bl
    I have been driving for 8+ yrs w/ hi/vol pump w/ no ill effects to date. The car was bought w/ the setup on recent engine rebuild. The car is used only for road-use/cruising, runs pressure 60-70 lbs at cruising speeds. I don't know why PO installed hi-vol pump, but, as long as it don't give any issues, leaving it alone. If it need be replaced, reg. vol wud be order of the day. I guess/assume the PO installed what they had.

    Didn't realize this thread was 4yrs old,
     
  14. Hotrock

    Hotrock Rick, an MCCI Member Supporting Member

    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2012
    Messages:
    1,467
    Likes Received:
    713
    Trophy Points:
    313
    Garage:
    1
    Location:
    Munroe Falls, Ohio
    Vehicle:
    1972 Mercury Comet, 1997 Mustang Cobra, 2019 Ford Edge ST
    I didn't realize it was 4 years old until you noted it. Looks like homemadetools resurrected the thread.

    My racing may have something to do with my twisting the oil pump rod.
     
  15. homemadetools

    homemadetools Member

    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2015
    Messages:
    2
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    3
    Vehicle:
    Jeep Wrangler

Share This Page