Roger's Idiot thread for a 302/C4 into a '70

Discussion in 'General Maverick/Comet' started by smegnl, Sep 18, 2019.

  1. Jaybee

    Jaybee Member

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    Your mystery part is called an Idle Stop Solenoid. It's purpose is to hold the throttle blades at idle position while the car is running but slam them all the way shut when you turn off the key to resist dieseling.

    My 1970 Galaxie 500 rubbed through the insulation on that wire against the edge of the valve cover. Once in a while it would get in the right position to ground out, but never get a good enough connection to get a dead short. When it did that I'd get out of the gas and the engine would die.
     
  2. smegnl

    smegnl Roger Saffle Supporting Member

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    I read that it doesnt matter which goes where on the heater hoses. And can I bolt them to the bolt on the shock tower?
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  3. dyent

    dyent Member

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    Roger:
    The upper water pump connection goes to the by-pass on the Thermostat housing, uses that 90 degree hose. For your Heater core, one from the lower water pump and the other from the elbow on your intake manifold.....
    David
     
  4. smegnl

    smegnl Roger Saffle Supporting Member

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    wow, i wasnt even close!
     
  5. Hotrock

    Hotrock MCCI Member Supporting Member

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    I hope you plan on installing all new new hose including the elbow! I run my hose through the valley created by the valve cover and intake manifold. I have not experienced any vapor lock and the hoses are tidy and out of the way.

    Note the elbow connecting the upper hose to the intake manifold, makes life easier.


    IMG_0858.JPG
     
    Last edited: Jun 29, 2020
  6. Craig Selvey

    Craig Selvey Indiana State Rep - MCCI

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    Also note the all metal fuel filter. Do NOT use the plastic or glass see thru filters.
     
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  7. smegnl

    smegnl Roger Saffle Supporting Member

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    radiator and elbow yes. But I wasnt going to replace the heater core hoses. Looks like a pain in the but to get them under the dash.
     
  8. Jaybee

    Jaybee Member

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    I've always routed heater hoses on top of the intake manifold. My '69 Cougar had A/C, the A/C lines routed alongside the shock tower and connected to the shock tower brace.
     
  9. stumanchu

    stumanchu Stuart

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    If you ever have to take out the heater core, the heater box will be much easier to deal with than headers, but my experience is with a non AC car. Save that project for another time if your core doesnt leak.
     
  10. smegnl

    smegnl Roger Saffle Supporting Member

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    Does this look right? Sorry for all the dumb questions, but the person who was supposed to help me has since bailed so im learning as I go. So I just run a wire from 1-1, and 2-2, right? I found the #1 marker on my cap.
    [​IMG]
     
  11. Krazy Comet

    Krazy Comet Tom

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    Yep... Only cravat is possibly the dist isn't indexed properly.

    If engine isn't already setting at TDC, roll it over till rotor is pointing at #1 on cap. At that point timing pointer should be very near TDC. It's easy to have balancer on TDC but on exhaust stroke, in that scenario rotor would pointing at #6.

    If dist isn't indexed correctly, #1 could be any tower on cap. To correct that, pull dist, roll engine to #1 compression stroke(TDC). reinstall dist so rotor is pointing at #1 on cap.
     
  12. smegnl

    smegnl Roger Saffle Supporting Member

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    If i never actually took the dist out, then the rotor should be correct, right? Since it has a notch and only fits one way.
     
  13. stumanchu

    stumanchu Stuart

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    Take your #1 plug out. Cover the plug hole with your finger. Turn your motor by the bolt in the front of the crankshaft, and when you feel air pressure being built up under your finger, you are on compression stroke. Try it several times until you feel the difference between compression and exhaust stroke. When you are sure you are on compression, stop when the timing mark is on TDC. Whatever terminal the rotor is pointing at is #1, regardless of what the cap says. If you want it to point at #1 on the cap, and it isnt, you have to pull the distributor out and rotate it so that it will be pointing at #1 when it is re-seated. When you find the location of #1, you can wire all the rest of the wires in the correct order. This is really the only way to be certain to get it right without knowing which terminal was previously used for #1.
     
  14. Hotrock

    Hotrock MCCI Member Supporting Member

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    I live in the area. If you need help with this task, I'm available. Just let me know.
     
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  15. RMiller

    RMiller My name is Rick Supporting Member

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    Don't listen to Stu, you want to stick your finger in the hole, have the plug wire dangling near your hand and have someone crank it with the key!:biglaugh: I'm joking but we have done it this way before. nothing like getting your finger sucked in and popped out all while getting whacked with a spark from the plug wire.:yikes: The stupid things we did in our early 20's....
     

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