Roger's Idiot thread for a 302/C4 into a '70

Wiring schematic and into found here.
http://www.suddenlink.net/pages/jonknapek/fordv8/duraspark.html

 

Thank you very much

 

From reading the site it looks like I can use the same wire that was going to my old ignition coil on the i6. What I dont get is the white wire going to the module. Something about a wore that tells the module its cranking to reduce load to the starter. I assume this is active once the key is fully turned into start/crack position. Anyone know where to find that wire on car?

 

From another thread it seems I need a "drop down bracket" for the Power Steering since I am going to use Hooker 6901 long tube headers. Again, not to sound dumb, but this bracket drops what down and does anyone have a part number?

 

I believe Autokrafters has the drop bracket. Bracket drops steering ram below header attached point to frame clearing header tubes.

 

fond it. https://www.autokrafters.com/p-9327-power-steering-cylinder-drop-bracket.aspx Now to find out exactly where it goes...

 

It goes on the frame rail where the current bracket is located. It bolts into the inserts down there. FYI those have a bad reputation of failing due to the extra leverage. Usually will be pulled from the frame. Most people have to weld reinforcements on them.

 

I would avoid long tube headers just because of the drop down bracket required and the issues it creates. Get the shorties and be happy.

 

is there a better one to use? Or do they all have that problem?

 

to late. Got some long tubes half off at a scratch and dent.

 

Not all drop brackets are created equally, some are fabricated with much heavier gauge metal than others.

I have one on my Fairlane purchased on Amazon, it's very strong and not even noticable. Issue is it requires some modification to fit & I have no idea if it would even come close to fitting a Maverick. Factory original "short" brackets for Mustang, Maverick & Torino are all different from one another.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CMCZS6

 

The drop bracket on my car was custom made by prev. owner; it was made from heavy gauge steel. It broke one day coming out of garage heading to Wisconsin (about 2 hr drive). I was lucky it broke coming out of garage -- was a bear backing into garage w/ the ram not supported. Long story short -- "Having that experience", don't think I'd be comfortable w/ the brackets offered commerically. I had it welded/repaired until I switched to Borgenson conversion, eliminating need for drop bracket...

 

I have a drop down bracket on my car with those same headers. The steering arm on the steering box hits a tube of the headers too. At the point of this discovery, the only fix I had patience for was the round end of a ball peen hammer. I only drive my car about 5-10 times a year, and I check that bracket to make sure it is tight every spring. I think they work loose and tear the nuts out of the frame. I also put a long bolt all the way through the frame to help keep it in place. Lots of pics on the net of those brackets tearing loose. Keep it tight for sure.

 

I used the following Hooker DD bracket from Summit Racing with my 6901 headers. The best thing to do is bolt on the bracket then spot weld it to the subframe after you have test fitted everything and the headers are in place. You may find header interference with the bracket. That can be worked through.

I eventually went to manual steering to reduce my drag strip ET.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hok-10961hkr/overview/

 

If upper bolt through the frame rail is not installed, a drop bracket is a problem waiting to happen. Increases strength and rigidity probably 5x. Inserts in bottom of frame rail are nothing more than large pop rivets.