Roger's Idiot thread for a 302/C4 into a '70

You need a transmission mount. The 2 studs go through the elongated holes on the cross member. The 2 outside elongated holes on the mount have bolts that fasten it to the tail of the transmission. I cannot remember if the ear on the center of the mount faces front or rear, but I think it fits better one way than the other.

 

Im not motor guy, but this defiantly does NOT look like a 50K mile ago rebuild....

 

It certainly does NOT!

 

Depending on oil quality & change schedule, I've seen 45-50K mile motors that were far worse.

I vacuumed out chunks of sludge in a 62K motor that had to be broken up so as not to clog the hose. That particular engine ran another 77K before I sold car, would see it around town another two+ years.

 

So how do I clean this up a bit without taking it apart? Can ijust wipe it out ?

 

Well Right or Wrong...Its painted.....

 

My grandfather swore by diesel fuel to wash things like that up, of course you run the risk of getting junk into the bearings, although if the heads look like that, you might want to pull the pan and put a new oil pump in it. - Matt

 

If that was mine and knowing it was a runner I would change the oil and add some seafoam. Run for a hundred miles, drain it and do it once more then drive it and enjoy.

 

I think I can handle that...thanks

 

This should make you feel better about yours, just over 96,000 miles on it. It ran fine, no knocking or smoke even. Was planning on running it until a friend made me a great deal on a 347. The sludge feels like skinned over pudding, squishy with a firm skin on top.

 

Put valve covers on. Made a huge mess with the gasket sealer stuff. Lost a washer some how. Looked all over for it. Triple checked and doenst look like it wound up under the valve cover. Lets hope not.
Put the thermostat in, went 160 deg since Im re using the i6 radiator.
Put back on the fuel pump.
Put on a new distributor cap and rotor thing. The caps not as red as I had hoped. Oh wells.
Figured out I dont know how to use a freaking torque wrench or the POS harbor freight thing just doesnt work.

 

SPARK PLUG GAP?

This engine has Autolite 26 spark plugs. Im going to just go and match them. My questions is what gap should I set them at? Reading says it depends on the heads, since that is where the plugs go. Looks like a lot of people say .050 or .054

Thanks in advance

 

The reason for the oversize dist caps on electronic engines is lessen the likelihood of crossfire in cap, mainly due to plug gap(some GM used .060 & more). As time progressed, gaps were pulled back as they were deemed not necessary.

I set almost anything electronic at .045, points .035.

The Almost covers nitrous that often needs a .028 - .032 gap... Also includes boosted engines such as Turbo Coupes, Super Coupes etc.

 

These two wires that are in the middle. Are those for the oil and water sensors? I know the oil is the thing sticking out from the side by the oil filter/fuel pump. Is the water the little electrode sticking up on the top corner of the block? I looked thru all my before pictures but I cant find where those two wires go. EDIT... found a video of a guy replacing his temp send. So yes it is the electrode sticking up at the corner of the block.

 

Off top of my head, oil pressure sender wire will be white with red stripe & temp red with white stripe.