Roger's Idiot thread for a 302/C4 into a '70

Discussion in 'General Maverick/Comet' started by smegnl, Sep 18, 2019.

  1. smegnl

    smegnl Roger Saffle Supporting Member

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    well then i better get them degreased so they are not all black.
     
  2. smegnl

    smegnl Roger Saffle Supporting Member

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    OK back to this thing.

    I toned out my half harness I got from the F150. I got it all figured out except the ignition switch part. Does anyone who have done this got some info on the wires that come from the column? Am I looking at to wires for S1 and S2 or are they the same wire? And I think I can reuse the wire for R that went to the points coil? I also assume I will need a ballast resistor since the 70 has only ever had points?
    [​IMG]
     
  3. smegnl

    smegnl Roger Saffle Supporting Member

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    " Optionally, but a good idea, the white wire in the 2-pin connector is connected to the "S" terminal on the starter relay. This is used as a cranking indicator to the module, to retard the timing slightly to ease the load on the starter motor "

    So where does one find this starter relay to hook up the white wire?
    EDIT.......
    DUH... the starter relay is the solenoid..
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 21, 2019
  4. RMiller

    RMiller My name is Rick

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    Terminology, bites you every time! So many people/regions have different names for parts. I was 40 when I joined here, into cars my entire life and I had never heard a distributor referred to as a dizzy til I came here.
     
  5. smegnl

    smegnl Roger Saffle Supporting Member

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    see now this shows the white S start wire differently. GRR.. Opposite freaking side of the solenoid....

    [​IMG]
     
  6. RMiller

    RMiller My name is Rick

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    In the second image the wire coming from the solenoid is connected to the same terminal on the resistor that feeds the coil. That would allow the wire that connects to the solenoid to be live during operation which could engage the solenoid and starter. It has a ballast resistor because the coil used there needs lower voltage to operate similar to a breaker point distributor coil. It gets the line from the solenoid to provide full 12 volts at start up only and drops back to the reduced voltage during operation.

    In your first image it designates a high performance coil that can take full 12 volts during operation so it does not use the resistor. That allows you to use the S wire solely for the module eliminating any possible feed back so you won't need the second switch that the I terminal provides. You would be fine with either setup connecting them to the terminal in the second image. That is the way I would do it just for piece of mind knowing those circuits are disconnected at the sloenoid.
     
  7. Hotrock

    Hotrock Rick, an MCCI Member Supporting Member

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    I haven't taken the time to read back through this thread to get the answer to my question. Are you using a Dura-spark wiring harness for your conversion either off a donor car or an after market item? If not, a harness may make this installation easier. They are available at Summit Racing.

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-30812
     
  8. smegnl

    smegnl Roger Saffle Supporting Member

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    I have half a harness from the donor. I just need to figure out the white wire and red wire.
     
  9. smegnl

    smegnl Roger Saffle Supporting Member

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    "In your first image it designates a high performance coil that can take full 12 volts during operation"
    Thanks, I didnt even notice that..

    "You would be fine with either setup connecting them to the terminal in the second image."
    I have a feeling my coil is not 12V high performance, so seems the second image with the resister and feed coming off solenoid I would be the way to go.

    "piece of mind knowing those circuits are disconnected at the sloenoid."
    Can you explain that a little more? So what circuits are disconnected?
     
  10. RMiller

    RMiller My name is Rick

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    Are you using all the parts from the donor including the coil? If so it would be best to find that diagram and copy how it's wired. When I get home later I'll doctor diagram #2 and see if I can clear the muddy waters for you.
     
  11. smegnl

    smegnl Roger Saffle Supporting Member

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    yes I am. Including coil. I think I got it now with the above info. I just need to figure out how to tie in the key for start /run
    Looks like I have to run a NEW 12V to a NEW ballast resistor?

    Edit: I put a V meter on the B+ wire going into the coil, I got 12V in the key run position and 8V in the key start position. Isnt this backwards?

    Thanks in advanced for everyone's help and tolerance.
     
  12. Krazy Comet

    Krazy Comet Tom

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    There is already a resistance wire in harness that will connect to white wire to module(feed to orig coil).
     
  13. smegnl

    smegnl Roger Saffle Supporting Member

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    Great day in the freaking morning!! That was my hope.
     
  14. smegnl

    smegnl Roger Saffle Supporting Member

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    View attachment 123421 This is my final understanding of the wire hook ups

    View attachment 123418
    [​IMG]


    EDIT: after some reading more, I decided to attached the white wire to the "S" side of the starter.
    EDIT2: It was pointed out later in the thread that I had hooked the coil to the Key side of the pink resistor wire instead of the relay side. I have fixed the above picture.
     
    Last edited: Nov 30, 2019
    RMiller likes this.
  15. RMiller

    RMiller My name is Rick

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    Bingo, you have a winner! That should get you rolling down the road.
     

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