I don't know of anyone that makes a Full Roller Rail Rocker. Myself I couldn't afford to have all the machine work done to install the Full Roller Rockers ( Machine heads, Screw-in Studs, Guide Plates before the cost of Rockers) so I pinned the stock Studs , and used a 5/16" Poly-Lock Rocker adjusting nut. I originally used the Stock Rockers and I did notice a difference when I installed the COMP Roller Tip Rockers. I turm my 302 6500 - 7000 RPM with a Solid lifter Camshaft and have had GREAT LUCK with them for 5 years. I probably JINX my engine now .
I agree. Especially when replacing 1.6's with 1.6's. The real net gain in power is in eliminating the friction at the fulcrum. And rail rockers aren't stamped steel, so that's not even a reason to switch. If you've got pedestal rockers which are stamped steel, the cost difference between roller tipped and full rollers ($50) is well worth the extra cost.
The reason my friend is not going to the screw in stud gide plate route is he is planning to upgrade to aluminum heads in the future [in 1 or 2 years] but for now he wants a little better set up than the stock CAST rockers.Right now it is a mild 302 in a 34 Ford street rod.Mainly a cruiser with a few burnouts along the way. And thanks very much for the pics and info i will pass it along to him. Derek.
If he's going to aftermarket heads in the future, tell him to save his money and don't waste it on rockers. The aftermarket heads will be set up for full rollers, most likely. I bought a set of Comp Cams "Engine builders" line,aluminum, full rollers 1.7 ratio for 7/16's studs for $270. Crane Energizers can be had for $200 new.