S.F.C.s installed--FINALLY...

How do those traction bars affect regular street driving? They look more "sturdy" than the slapper bars I used to use.

 

Sorry, didn't mean to get off track. Back to the sub frames...

So, just weld a bar across, or is there some special shape or movement needed for this project?

Can someone give me dimensions, if it is something I can fabricate?

 

Yup T.L.,, it is a noticeable difference for sure.
Dan

 

'Found a picture of Dan Starnes SFC's.

Although a MIG was probably used (vs a TIG (aka GTAW) and certainly not an FCAW), it doesn't appear a BFH was required.

 

That looks fairly easy (of course, I hate working upside down lying under the slag from welding). 1" OD stainless, just following the contour of the floorpan? Welded straight to the subframes?

 

S.F.C. are a must for anything over a stock rebuild

 

Obiously when your doing this it will be on jackstands, you just want to make sure the suspension is loaded, and loaded the way you want it when welded.

 

That is a good point...I spent all this time leveling the car, I would be pissed if I welded junk to the bottom and lost my level.

I guess I could jack the car up, and "park" it on some stands somehow...under the wheels or hubs.

Anyone have any safe suggestions?

 

Dan still selling them pre-made? Did he make them, or sell you something he bought and didn't use?

Where do I get some if I don't want to make em???

 

Now that I think about welding them on and messing with my frame allignment, I started another thread related to this so I wouldn't JACK TL's thread again. The new thread is related to having the frame realligned prior to, or in conjunction with, installation of sub frame connectors.

http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?p=234790#post234790

 

might have to fab some doesnt look too hard.

 

I built a set of sub frames out of 1x2 inch boxed tube, and some flat steel and they worked great.

 

Of course not for you. You're a fabricator!

Scoop; it has been my understanding that Dan sold all the ones he made, and no longer has time to make them anymore. They were made from NASCAR-grade roll cage steel (not stainless) and were bent to clear the parking brake cables and for maximum ground clearence. They are thicker and stronger than the thin metal that the subframes are made of.

They were installed with the car's suspension loaded. I used drive-up ramps under the front tires, and jack-stands under the outtermost parts of the rear axel (shock mounts). This was done on a fairly flat concrete garage floor. My car is even on both sides up front, and 1/4-inch lower on the driver side rear than on the passenger side rear, which I think is negligible.

They are a compromise, but are perfect for what I am building. A more rigid system would either hang down too low, or completely block access to the leaf-spring front eye-bolts.

Hope this answers your questions. Dan can chime-in anytime he wants if I have left anything out or misstated anything....

 

I have access to a drive-on lift, used for allignments. They told me I could use it on weekends if I ever needed it. I forgot about that, since I never thought I would need it.

 

i wish. i'm just to cheap to buy premade items. so i just make them myself.