sanding and paint time, I want some advice/input

thanks for the link
man I didn't know thats all they cost

I figured one would be in the triple digits like most car stuff

 

Paint Booth and Protection

Couple of other things I could have mentioned.

Here's a makeshift paint booth made from plastic sheets from Home Depot. I also made a fresh air supply with some Scuba gear and a rotating boom. You have to protect yourself from urethane paint. The catylist is VERY toxic.

Advice I read but didn't follow was to wet the floor down before you spray. Might have helped. I had a lot of dirt in the paint.

 

Thats a good setup.
This is probbaly the route I'll go. :Handshake

I'm sanding the trunk as we speak.

I read our 15 gal. compressor and it reads on the side, 5.0 scfm maintained at 40psi and 3.5 scfm maintained at 90 psi. I've looked at a few 30psi guns that should work fine, but I'll keep browsing.

 

I keep remembering other things. Notice all the lights in the "booth". Bought a bunch of cheap double 40 watt florescents. Can't get too much light on it.

 

Yea were running lights down the garage side here in a month, thats a good paint setup though. thats all anybody needs

dumb question but I need to ask

Now primer...will the primer stick to the sanded enamel and then I can finish sand the primer and then seal?

I've read where urethane doesn't stick to lacquer/enamel bases....but will the primer stick to the enamel? thus the urethane will stick to he primer as it wont be in contact with the enamel.....

its the stupid things like this that worry me lol

 

Good question but I wouldn't be able to answer it. When you know what primer you're going to use, I'd call the manufacturer and ask them.

I used Eastwood's 1:1 grey epoxy primer without removing all of the original paint. Some of the imperfections are from not removing all of the old paint. Sanding the old stuff smooth isn't enough I guess. If I ever do another one (doubtful) I'd be more aggressive about removing the old paint.

I'm not seeing any adhesion problems as yet. Probably used 180 grit under the primer and then at least scruffed the primer before applying the color. Was careful about getting the surface chemically clean before spraying each coat.

 

Ok will do.

I just finished the trunk top, I cut alot of paint with 120 and then spent alot of time sanding with 220. I have one low spot left to fill

 

I would strip these down with some aircraft stripper. When painted, you need to put a flex agent in the paint on these rubber parts.

 

Thanks for the heads up
Yea they flaked right off my rubber pieces, I have read where others have the cowl vents crack/flake off as well. Is this because their galvanized

I finished the inner trunk just now. You could tell the inside wasnt sanded when repainted as the paint just pushed right off.
If I can finish both fenders tomorrow and the hood thursday then I'll be happy as the rear body will be all remaining .

 

finished fender yesterday, started on the hood today

 

you can see my ol beater I ride around with, in the background

 

Time to revive this post. haha

The cars sanded, ready for primer and paint. Took a couple months as you can tell.

I went to KOI in Lexington today to talk paint and get an idea of what to buy and what to do.

I'm told my air compressor is way too small, I'm told unless I have 20 feet of copper pipe, a compressor that can put out 12 scfm at 90psi, a big air filter, and high quality line I'm just wasting my time.

I was told epoxy primer was the best primer, and to do a base coat clear coat; if I was to screw up with single stage then I have to wait a week to repaint... then they gave me paint prices.

A gallon of green Dupont $358 and a pint of off white Dupont $129... Thats not including the reducer, flex agent, or clear coat.


Going solely by the paint place it sounds like I cannot paint this car unless I spend 2-3 grand in equipment. My uncle use to paint cars for a living...with a 18 gal. compressor and a barn with good lighting.

 

You don't have to spend that much for a very nice paint job. I bought a refurbished compressor w/12 CFM @ 90 PSI at Harbor Freight for under $400. Look for a used one. I made a water extracter with small protable air tank and some copper tubing all submerged in ice for less than $100 in parts. I used Eastwod Epoxy Primer in a kit with 1 gal of primer and a quart of activator for about $100. NASON single stage paint is not that expensive and is very forgiving in that imperfections (dirt, bugs, orange peel, sags) can be sanded and buffed away. Don't recall for sure what I paid for the NASON top coat but maybe about $125/gallon plus activator.

I get lots of compliments on the paint from people, especially if they know it was my first whole-car paint job. There are imprefections but hardly anyone notices. I only see them when I wash and wax the car.

I used A LOT of paint because I did one or two panels at at time (more waste) and had to redo everything once or twice because the previous steps weren't right. Would have been less expensivve if I got it right the first time.

 

I was wanting single stage but evidently its hard to fix if you screw up.
Is the Nason a urethane paint? The guy behind the counter kept refering to it as an enamel paint.

 

Yes, the NASON I used was a single stage urethane. Think I had a nib in every square inch of the car. A bee doing the back stroke on the roof and another bug on the fender. A sag or two and some orange peel. Sanded and buffed it ALL out. Think you should try another auto paint store.

Just be careful -- urethane catalyists are HIGHLY toxic.

The only complaint I have about the NASON paint is color matching. The Wimbledon White was WAY too yellow. The counter guy at the paint store fixed it by using a less intense yellow than the formula called for. I like the Grabber Blue but it might be a little more intense than original.