sanding and paint time, I want some advice/input

I still suggest Maaco....but then again a windshiled gasket had me throwing in the towel.

 

haha.
alright thanks for the info.

yea they mentioned color matching is the bad part about Nason.

...but yea I plan to check a couple other places out. The folks at KOI seemed to talk me down on everything.

 

***update***

-Ordered some new line for the compressor, so I have more travel room.
-Ordered a HVLP 2.5mm spray gun to spray the epoxy primer.
-I bought a couple water traps. I have a water trap mounted right out from the motor of the compressor, the kind with the bottom reservoir you can drain, and at the end of the line I have a mini inline water/oil seperator to catch right before the gun.

The weather next week will be a little cooler and less humid, and I'll start priming the car. Piece by piece. Dad and I will then fix any low/bad spots if any show up and wet sand the car with 400.

Our 15 gallon craftsman is rated at 4.99scfm at 40psi. I was told it should be able to handle spraying panal by panal, but I risk burning it up as it would constantly run.
So I brought out my old 3hp cambell hausfeld 11 gallon workhorse, its rated at 7.0 scfm at 40psi and the primer gun is to run at 4.00-7.1scfm at 40 psi. So I should be able to manage priming pretty good. I've ran that compressor for almost an hour straight with my die grinder so I know it can handle a short bursts of spraying.

I'll add pics to my facebook album that you guys can find in the maverick/comets project section under 1977 4 door.

thanks for the help guys. :Handshake

 

When you spoke to the guys at KOI, Did they tell you you can put epoxy primer over old paint??? In my experience, epoxy primers are applied over bare metal for the adhesion you need for the subsequent paint coats...They dont play well with paint under them. As far as urethane and enamel goes. The finish paint is acrylic enamel...It becomes an acrylic urethane when you add the hardener to it. (this allowes you to sand/buff out imperfections) Unless you go with a base/clear system...Thats a horse of a different color.

 

I told them I have sanded down my original paint and have a few sections of filler where I did some cutting and welding and the guy I was talking to said use epoxy and he mentioned its necessary over bare metal to seal and prevent rust. He never talked as if I shouldn't use it.

I plan to visit another place Monday and get some feedback as the folks at KOI just weren't my kind of guys, they just acted like they didn't want my business and weren't real helpfull.

What primer should I use in my case in your opinion?

Thanks for the info. The main reason they referred me to the Du-Pont base coat/clear coat was because I was doing a two-tone paint job and they said the single stage wouldn't have a good dividing line between colors and that if I screw up I'd have to start from scratch in about a week.

IMO from reading and listening to others the Nason single stage isn't as troublesome as the KOI guys made it out to be and goes on simple and isn't too bad to fix.

Whats your take on 2 toning a car with single stage?

 

When you do any 2 tone paint job...You will have a tape line/raised edge. With single stage or plain old enamel...As long as the tape line is crisp (Use 3M fine line tape) its not an issue. But you will have raised up off the surface stripes. Base / clear systems allow you to bury the stripes and whole project in clear coat and get a smooth flat surface without a transition/tape edge. Best way to accomplish that is to paint the stripe color first in the area where they belong(cover more area than you need for the stripes), Lay out/mask the stripes.Then paint the body color. Then you can remove your mask and viola!...You have stripes. This method is better because its easier to lay on the clear and build up to the final level so its all even, as opposed to having to load the whole project in clear to level the stripes on top of the body color.

 

As for primer...When I paint over old paint left behind...I paint the whole car with Feather fill (Usually 3 coats of it)...Its a sprayable filler that will fill small imperfections and some heavy scratches in the existing finish. Then I do all my body repair work. After that I prime with a good 2K (urethane) primer surfacer. I then do my blocking. At that stage you are ready for final primeing and sealing...Then the top coat goes on and your done...

 

thanks for the info mavman :Handshake, I may get some chrome trim for a 4 door or pinstripe the boundary for the 2 paint colors, I think the trim would be nicer in the end though.

so basically the stage I'm at I can use the 2k urethane primer surfacer, (dad wants us to wet sand as he says back in the day he and my uncle got the best finishes that way) and seal then hit with my green and white.

 

Yes...That would be the way to go. Unless you want to do the feather fill first. You can apply it over filler/bare steel/old paint...3 coats of it...Block sand...Primer surfacer...Wet sand...Seal and paint. The feather fill is excellent for giving you a smooth flat finish once blocked out...It will fill any sanding scratches, minor nicks or other imperfections you may have missed. You allready have the spray gun to shoot it (Big 2.0 nozzle) Saves from useing gallons of primer to get the surface flat while blocking the body out.

 

alright thanks mavman72, I appreciate it

 

Glad I could help!!! :Handshake