Scooper's R&C power rack and pinion Mustang II "type" install.

Discussion in 'General Maverick/Comet' started by scooper77515, Apr 14, 2013.

  1. Maxx Levell

    Maxx Levell Member

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    Any chance you can post a pic of where and what the header is hitting on?
     
  2. scooper77515

    scooper77515 No current projects.

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    It isn't hitting on anything. I was just really hoping to be able to drop it in from the top without obstruction, but just like before, I will have to jack the car up and pull the engine off the mounts to get the header on.

    Part of the reason for doing this swap was to not have to jimmy it in from underneath.

    I am sure if I just jacked it all up and put it in from underneath, there would be no other issues.

    I am just being pigheaded. I will most likely use the Hookers and do it the hard way. Eventually.
     
  3. injectedmav

    injectedmav Member

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    Nice work!:yup:

    A note on your rotors if you haven't figured it out already: the vanes on the inside of the rotor determine direction of rotation, not the grooves on the outside. Straight vanes can rotate either way, curved vanes are specific to direction and should curve back from the center across the top arc of the rotor.
     
  4. scooper77515

    scooper77515 No current projects.

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    I swapped the rotors around this morning.

    It is official, the Hooker headers will not fit because of the canton oversized oil pan.

    Going to have to go shorties or stock manifolds.
     
  5. bmcdaniel

    bmcdaniel Senile Member

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    Just me, but I'd get rid of or mod the oil pan and keep the headers.
     
  6. scooper77515

    scooper77515 No current projects.

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    I cannot find a non-canton oil pan anywhere. Everyone has sold out, and on backorder.

    About to go back to manifolds...

    Getting tired of this.

    The long headers have been a hassle since day one. No hard feelings on losing them.

    I tend to mess with things too much. If I just put it all together and left it alone, it would have been fine, but I constantly feel the need to turn a wrench, so they are always in the way.
     
  7. Maxx Levell

    Maxx Levell Member

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    Do you have to use a specialty pan? If not, I would think a stock 5.0 pan would be fairly easy to come by. If you want the extra capacity of an aftermarket pan, looks like Jegs has part# 710-20506 that could ship tomorrow. Of course, you'd need the pickup tube as well...it's always something. ;)
     
  8. Earl Branham

    Earl Branham Certified Old Fart

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    Scott; I ditched my long tubes too, and went for the manifolds. Be aware that they are made for 2" exhaust pipes, and are a bottleneck. You probably won't get the performance you will with headers, but it is worth it to eliminate the hassle of long tubes. Look for a set of shorties, Summit and Jegs have them, and they aren't that expensive.
     
  9. scooper77515

    scooper77515 No current projects.

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    I have a set of shorties on the way, thanks to car-nut! :Handshake

    And I like what Frank did. Simple, wish I had thought of it. He cut the collector flange off and welded up a single pipe that is bent to clear everything, so he can stab it in on each side and already have the first 4 feet of exhaust in place to bolt the rest up to. Appears to be 3" tubing, at that.

    [​IMG]
     
  10. mav1970

    mav1970 Bob Hatcher

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    Very nice solution :dancing:
     
  11. groberts101

    groberts101 Member

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    yeah that works well and I do that on quite a few that I build.

    If you guys use these venturi's.. they will flow better and allow easier mod's since they often slip right over the primaries to further strengthen while avoiding butt joints.

    Get the venturi roughly sized to barely slip over the primaries(be sure to keep em' "straight" off the primaries though).. tack it on opposite sides.. then work away from each tack weld with a hammer/flat chisel to tightly form it to.. and between.. each tube as you tack your way around. Clamps can help make things easier too.

    EDIT: be sure to weld the primary pipes together where they all meet at the ends.. and then also run the bead where they all meet at the sides to slightly beyond the venturi collectors overlapping weld line. That way the unit will be completely sealed after you run the weld all the way around the collector.

    If you do decide to go that far.. I have set of V6 headers that I did for one of my work vans hanging out in the shed I could snap some quick pic's of real quick if need be.
     
    Last edited: Apr 29, 2013
  12. scooper77515

    scooper77515 No current projects.

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    Another good, but simple, idea! Thanks a bunch!
     
  13. ESampson

    ESampson Member

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    i ended up with shorty hedmans on my car also..after a very long and fustrating fight with 6901's and every other brand..the hedmans just dropped right in..if i knew that from the beginning i wouldn't have tried anything else!
     
  14. Lzoesch

    Lzoesch Levi Zoesch

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    What coil over setup did you use? I want to go the route
     
  15. scooper77515

    scooper77515 No current projects.

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    I used the Rod and Custom non-coilover. 71 gold used the coilover. RC106 is mine, RC107 is coilover version.

    Be prepared, it is a lot of work, and your old parts will likely not fit.

    And buy the complete kit, and don't skimp thinking you can buy parts from other kits and distributors.
     

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