Bleeding the clutch. Pump it 50-75 times, then hold it down and crack the bleeder screw. Also helps to extend the bleeder hose up to the rear of the engine, this saves wear and tear on your body when working alone. Also helps to simply leave the cap off the reservoir overnight and let the air find it's way out on it's own. On my hydro install last month, I used a large syringe hung from a hook in the hood, with the reservoir hose connected to the syringe, keeping the syringe full. Once I had pressure built and most of the air out, I reconnected the hose to the reservoir, then mounted the reservoir to the rear of the shock tower. There's simply no other place to mount it and not have an "S" bend in the reservoir line. With the "S" it is impossible to bleed the air out on that end of the system. You'll have to pump and bleed dozens of times to get the air out of the system. Had to go through the same process when I did the V8/4 speed swap in my 89 Ranger. It's the one drawback to going hydro.
I have a chiltons manual, I'll give it a read... Short of building my long block, I've done everything myself from top to bottom... I have a personal relationship with google...lol
I'm using a hall effect summit brand dizzy and it came with the springs and stuff to dial it in... I'll keep at it until it's right...
Thanks for the info, bleeding the clutch has been tricky to say the least.. I battled leaks for awhile, I got that cured finnally...
Yea, it's the one drawback to going hydro. Just wanted to let you know, that the effort involved here isn't unique to this car in particular. I went thru the same crap with my Ranger. Although it's master cylinder's design (different from the Wilwood I have in the Comet) did make it easier to get the air out via the reservoir end (leaving the cap off over night and letting that air find its way out on it's own) With the Wilwood, you had to pump it and you could see the air finding it's way out up top (I used clear medical tubing for bleeding it before going back to the black rubber line)
OK that should have at least somewhat of a performance curve from factory... After setting base timing, check in 500 RPM increments(at least 1K) till it stops advancing, at that point add or subtract base timing to give the 38* total... Of course the easy way is rev the snott out of it, set to 38* and lock it down... Though likely not optimum, if curve is fairly aggressive it does work...
