Yea... what cutting tools did you guys end up using? I am thinking having the engine out at least, and use a cutting blade on a grinder. Then I would have space for good welding angles...
Of course then you would want to grind and sand the welds, prep, paint...and if your not concerned about the wheel well area, then maybe leave that to the elements. This is how we get into lengthy projects
I used a 4" grinder from Harbor Frieght with a cutting wheel on it. I bought the ten pack of wheels to do it with and used them all. Sure cuts nice and fast though! Make sure to wear eye, hearing and lung protection. I was blowing metal snots for a week after I was done!
I have a big grinder (7 or 9", dont remember which) that I put a 10" metal cut off wheel on. Available from any Home Depot. It will cut through anything. Plus one wheel will more than last through both sides.
This may be going a bit far for a single inquiry, but, wouldn't this thread/question make a good addition to the "tech articles" section? I've seen pictures and thought of doing this mod, myself, and had the exact same question. It would sure open the door to other V-8 swap possibilities, besides the 302, and you bet other people would use it. Kinda like a 3-stage performance package, depending on skill/desire to learn: 1.) 302 swap (simple, bolt-on stuff) 2.) 351 swap (some fabrication skills needed) 3.) big block swap (you're nuts ) Just my . Eric
This is an old thread that has been resurrected for good reason, and I agree that it should be sent to tech. but everyone does it a little differently. For starters, I left the engine in. I was doing a head/intake swap, so when I was down to the block, I laid a VERY THICK welding blanket over the engine and started cutting. If I did it again, I would use the angle grinder like these guys are talking about, but I only had a pneumatic die grinder and used MANY cut-off wheels. Should have spent the $50 for an angle grinder and I would have saved some time and probably had a nicer and straighter cut... I also ended up spending $100 for the optometrist to yank a chunk of metal out of my eye, even after wearing a pair of goggles AND a face shield. I think I had a chunk in my welding hat and it fell into my eye when I was taking it off
I agree for the most part. However, this is not the most informative thread on the subject I have seen on this forum. Either one of the larger threads should be used, or this one could be merged with others to make a super informative tech thread. Get on it admin!
Big block Problems Does anyone have or know where I could see pictures of shock towers cut and reinforced, to give me some ideas??? I have a 74 with a big block 351 cleveland, its in there but you cant change 4 of the plugs with out pulling the motor?? Help Anyone...
Do you mean a 351 Modified??? Some folks call that a "big block" because it uses the 429/460 bellhousing... The rest are small blocks all the way. As far as the shock towers, 74 might have reinforced towers already. Not sure... 75-up has them for sure. The rest is straight forward shaving the towers. This thread and about 50 others on this forum go into detail. Until they merge the threads and create a tech thread on the subject, a search is your best bet. I know your pain. I have done the Cleveland swap without shaving. Works fine until you want to service the engine. Edit: Welcome BTW! Oh, and your 9" has 4.11 gears. I wouldn't nit-pick, but I am named after that ratio after all.
No I mean 351C (Cleveland) its a big block, look around about the cleveland is was produced for nascar and has small bock displacement with a big block stroke. Its supose to be the best of both worlds. But by ford and everyone else its considered a big block. It lays on the shock towers on bothsides pluse I had to shave the manifolds down about 1/2 inch.. Its a neat motor with tramendous torqe and still able to spin 6600-7200 rpm.. Thanks
